Tuesday, November 13, 2018

Great Lakes Hikes 2018 Gathering

During the weekend before the 1999 firearms deer season would commence a group of people, all members of the old yahoo Groups GreatLakesHikes group, would arrive at the Birch Grove Schoolhouse for the first annual GLH Gathering. It is now 2018 and last weekend we held the 20th annual GLH/North Country Trail Gathering. While some people have gone (including sadly one death of fondly remembered Dick Bolton) others have joined the gathering. Just three people, myself, Paul, and Julie, have been able to attend all 20. This year’s event was just as enjoyable as previous ones have been. Good food and drink, enjoyable hiking, interesting weather, and always good company helped make this gathering just as good as the previous ones have been.
Below you will find a handful of photos that give a sense of the event. You will also find the audio podcast I pulled together to document the event.
Photo taken November 9, 2018 at 11:59 AM

Having two people working a bow saw makes the job of cutting go much more quickly. When you have two bow saws to use on trees, of which we had several, where two cuts were necessary was quite helpful too. --November 9, 2018 at 11:59 AM. Bitely, MI, United States

Photo taken November 10, 2018 at 11:07 AM
I believe the creek Andy, Nancy, John, and Steve are corssing is Cole Creek. We are not too far from the start of the hike at M-20. Some people will do a shorter hike of somewhat over 3 miles stopping at 3 Mile Road. The rest of us (including me) will go a bit more than 8 miles to 6 Mile Road. --November 10, 2018 at 11:07 AM. White Cloud, MI, United States

Photo taken November 10, 2018 at 1:54 PM
We found this horse and it improved Elwira’s and my moods. By this time we had learned that Steve was fine and waiting for us at 5 Mile Road with Jim, Linus and Eugene. Earlier Steve had bushwhacked around El and me and we did not know it. We were worried and spent time trying to track him down. --November 10, 2018 at 1:54 PM. White Cloud, MI, United States

Photo taken November 10, 2018 at 2:50 PM
Just beyond 5 Mile Road. Steve took this photo of me. --November 10, 2018 at 2:50 PM. White Cloud, MI, United States

Photo taken November 10, 2018 at 7:16 PM
Happy birthday Julie and Debi. --November 10, 2018 at 7:16 PM. , ,

Photo taken November 11, 2018 at 10:48 AM
Tent city at the Schoolhouse. You can see my tent, Andy and Elwira’s tent, the Haan home, and John’s tiny shelter. --November 11, 2018 at 10:48 AM. White Cloud, MI, United States

Photo taken November 11, 2018 at 12:37 PM
Loda Lake. Those of us left after breakfast and Schoolhouse cleanup are doing a 3 mile hike around Loda Lake. --November 11, 2018 at 12:37 PM. White Cloud, MI, United States

Photo taken November 11, 2018 at 1:47 PM
Steve has found an emergency shelter. No emgency presented itself during our break so when we left he got up and left with us. --November 11, 2018 at 1:47 PM. White Cloud, MI, United States


Check out this episode

Sunday, November 4, 2018

Several Days in Dublin, Ireland

Our trip to Ireland was back in June but I never posted this entry about our days in Dublin. Here it is.

Times for photos are Eastern Daylight Saving Time.

We spent several days in bite-sized chunks in Dublin. Since the time spent in Dublin was broken up by our various hiking weeks I am not going to try and be specific about what we did any given day. Instead I will just focus on our overall experience in and around Dublin.

Initially we were staying in a hotel that turned ou to be quite a bit farther outside of central Dublin than we had first thought. The Talaght which is several kilometers outside of the center. While the tram was very efficient it still took a good 40 minutes to ride into town and that just chanaged the whole feling of things. On subsequent stays we stayed in a hotel smack dab in the middle of town not far from places like St. Stephen’s Green and the tourist districts around Grafton Street but also near quieter neighborhood streets. Once you are in the center of things it is an easy city to walk around in. We did just that most days.

Their are all sorts of tour groups milling about from walking tours of substantial size to motorized tours using buses, ducks, and maybe even horse drawn carriages. We just walked. Stores of all types abound in the areas around Grafton and you can find some really nice places like the x where I would eventually buy a lovely afghan and scarf. The Temple Bar area is reportedly the place to be for nighttime live music in pubs but we never expereinced that. Just too late and Mom and Dad certainly had no real interest and I didn’t want to try going it solo (and it was late). That whole area when we wandered through was always full of people - so crowded.

We had some places we planned to visit. One of them was the Irish Museum of Modern Art. This is definitely worth a visit if you have any interst in art. We didn’t check out the exhibiitions that cost but the free-to-anyone exhibitions were good enough. At this late date I can’t now tell you what really intriguied us but it was time well spent in an inteeresting old building. A nice snack at the museum cafe topped off that visit.

Some tours do cost money. We booked a tour of the Guinness brewery (well not anymore I think) and while they provide a staggering amount of information some of which I might even remember I am not sure I can really reccommend spending the 20 euros per person for this glitzy experience. I am not even sure it was the best pint of Guinness I have ever had and you would think it ought to be. Their is a lot of history to absorb and plenty of company lauditory information to see as well as general information too. But even for a true stout beer snob I am not sure it is worth the money and time. The views from the top floor of the St. James Gate (think that is right) brewery though are pretty good.

image taken June 26 2018 0517 Dublin, Co. Dublin, Ireland

After taking a student-led tour of the campus at Trinity College we had a chance to see athe Booknof Kels. It is kept in a dom room in the library whose main hall is pictured here. Sadly it is hard to really see the book in its case. Just be satisfied learningvthe history. That’s good enough.

A much better deal is the student-lead tour of Trinity College. We had wandered through this centuries-old college campus in the heart of DUblin earlier in the trrip just to get a sense of the place. We even saw teams of, I assume, students playing cricket. The tour we took was lead by a second-year student, dressed in old-style student robes (no longer required) and she had a wealth of knowledge to share. The college has all sorts of traditions that I can see add a lot to the experiences of the students as well as staff who live and study there. You might end up forgetting everything you hear but it is still a tour worth taking. Our visit to glimpse the Book of kels was a bit disapointing. It was crowded and the lighting is so dim that seeing the page they have chosen to share that day was really not possible. However, if you can deal with the light and crowds their is a lot of information to read. We weren’t. Take the student-lead tour but if you do not see the Book of Kels you aren’t really going to feel like you missed something.

More wandering thorugh the town center including exploring places Like St. Stephen’s Green which is a very nice busy park and some smaller parks likeIveagh are worth your time too. Besides on the way back from Iveagh we found an absolutely lovely long skinny tea and coffee shop that serves great apple and chocolate desertss. I wish I could remember its name.

image taken July 02 2018 0824 Dublin, , Ireland

Walking out to the Poolbeg Liggthouse in Dublin Bay. You have to walk just over a mile into the bay on a great seawall tyat juts out from the shore. We actually started at Sandymount which adds a anput 3km of shoreline strolling to the walk.

We did two “classic” walks in the Dublin area as well. The walk out to the Poolbeg lighthouse which sits about 1.8km out in Dublin Bay was a bit of a let down. You walk along a road, and sometimes beach, if you do like us and start at the Sandymount DART station. You can get closer via buses that drop off by a little nature preserve. For us it was a just-under 6km walk one way to the lighthouse. Not hard but also not terribly enthralling. The breezy walk along the top of the granite blocks that comprise the easily 10-meter wide seawall which rises several meters above the sea is an experience in its own right. Waves crash against one side and the other seems far calmer. Huge boats ferrying people and goods move slowly by as the 63-foot high lighthouse gets nearer and nearer. It is a completely automated lighthouse now but for 3 centuries that was not the ase. They burned peet and turf before using oil and candles to create the light to warn ships of hazzards. On a clear sunny though breezy afternoon it isnt a bad walk and plenty of people do it. But somehow I think we were all expecting a bit more though I can’t quite tell you what that more we were expecting was. If you need to kill some time though you can do far worse than this flat not-quite-beach walk.

image taken July 03 2018 0723 Greystones, Co. Wicklow, Ireland

We left the cliff-hugging trail behind and strolled through fenced off fields. We are just anout to enter the proper outskirts of the village of Greystones.

A far better walk is the journey between Bray and Graystones. I think you actually have a couple of options of walking routes for this walk. The option we id not take would have had us walking over the tops of the cliffs of Bray Head. Instead we followed a tarmac road that climbed up the head to a hardpack gravel path that would take us around the head a few dozen (if that) meters below the tops as well as somewhat above the railway line that hugs the edge of the cliffs and is used by both DART and Irish Rail. That railway was built by English engineer named Brunell I believe. He is acknowledged as one of the great builders of the 19th century but this line was someting of a challenge as it is on ground that has since eroded quite a bit forcing re-design and moving the line inland. The proper place to have put the line would have been more inland anyway but the owner of the land, Lord Meath (sp) idd not want his land bi-sected. He gave the railway the land to build on for free but it still became a very expensive line to build. The views of the Irish Sea though are wonderful. The walk along the narrow path, just wide enough for two people to squeeze by each other, is easy. Give yourself a couple hours to easily walk between the two towns. It is about 8km in length. If you are lucky as you pop out after the gentle descent into meadowlands outside of Greystones you will encounter an ice cream truck. He probably does a big business in that spot on warmer sunny days selling soft icecream cones, cups, and water. We enjoyed our cones. Too bad the walk into Greystones itself is not pretty. A large construction project is underway building, I think, new homes on the seafront. The people with homes arelady there are going to loose their views. It is ugly and noisy. Once you get past it though the village itself seems quite nice. We had lunch in a pleassant little place before walking down to the beach. The sand was warm but the water was cold. Definitely not something I would choose to swim in. But I can say I dipped my feet in the sea.

image taken July 03 2018 0727 Greystones, Co. Wicklow, Ireland

Mom and Dad on a beach not far from Greystones village. The bluff behind themis what we just descended from on easily walked trail.

image taken July 03 2018 0840 Greystones, Co. Wicklow, Ireland

The beach at Greystones. The ocean is chilly but we saw some hardy souls in the water - though not far in. It is a windy afternoon on the beach so we left quickly.

Thursday, October 18, 2018

Bonassola and Cinque Terre Day 6- Walk 5 Campiglia to Porto Venere (AVG)

Yesterday we went to bed and the waves were still crashing with a bit more force than the placid surf had presented on other days. This morning you would never have known anything had been going on: the sky was blue, the water crystal clear and calm. Our final day of walking in the general area of the Cinque Terre villages looked like it would be a lovely day to walk and take a boat ride back.

The easier group would take a far shorter and less challenging walk from Campiglia to Port Venere. The group tackling the harder option would have to first ascend paths from Riomaggiore to Campiglia and then follow the more difficult paths (avoiding a mountain road walk) that would take them to Port Venere too. We took the easier option. After taking a train to La Spezia the 10 of us doing the easier walk piled into taxis that drove up to the hilltop village of Campiglia. As we had ample time it made perfect sense to settle down for a mid-morning coffee break. After all, we had been en route for an hour or so even if it was by train and car. We finished our cakes and coffees and hoisted our packs at 10:20.

You leave the hilltop village by paved roads and forested paths that wander through the forests on the clifftops. It is easy walking. Now and then a view opens up and we were able to look out and down into the harbor where La Spezia resides.

After about 3km our widening forest roads and paths would take us to some type of installation. Maybe it has something to do with the navy. At this point our easy walk lead us onto a mountain road which we would follow, gently descending, for several kilometers. The sun beat down upon us, the high was 83F, as we walked along the dusty mountain road. At one point we had a good view of Campiglia to our west sitting up high above us. 

It isn’t the most exciting road to walk down and we were probably lucky in our choice of lunch spot in a shaded curve that while out of the sun certainly had nothing to offer in the way of fine views. 

In time our road intersected the Alte Via Golfo (High Gulf Way - the people tackling the harder walk would come down along that mountain trail). 

We passed a small quarry and kept heading down. We still had some climbing to do. Leaving our mountain dirt road for a shady road that gently climbed and then following a short modestly steep trail we gained 40 meters in short order before picking up another road. By now we were within 1.5 miles of Porto Venere. We left the road for a descending mountain trail that steepened as we went. LIke so many trail in this region this one used steps to change elevation. We soon found ourselves sitting at a refuggio where you could buy a carafe of whine for 2 euros: many people did. Not long before reaching the refuggio we had passed a sign suggesting it would take 45 minutes to reach Port Venere from that point. If you see signs with place names and what looks like a distance remember that in mainland Europe a decimal number like that is in fact a time. It turns out that the 45 minutes is likely about right for an average. We plunged away from the refiuggio rapidly descending rough steps, sometimes very narrow , towards the sea. I think I got down in about an hour; Mom 45 minutes. 

We still had well over an hour before our boat ride would commence. Ample time to enjoy a gelato and then stroll around the resort-like port. It was nice to just relax while waiting to board the boat. This may not have been the most exciting walk we have done but we enjoyed it nonetheless.

The boat ride back was a fine way to end the day. It might be best to think of the boat as a water taxi. It stops at all the Cinque Terre villages (not sure if it goes beyond Monterosso) and seems to have its home port at Porto Venere. However, it is definitely not a tour boat as the only announcements you are going to hear are very brief ones saying the boat is landing and leaving a village.

We rounded the point of Porto Venere with its fortress sitting on the bluff guarding the entrance to the harbor. The boat motored smoothly northwest along the coast. Small clutches of buildings dotted the mountainous coastline. Campiglia came into view. Other tiny settlements were passed. Somewhere up there, as many of these hamlets definitely do not have access to the sea, there must be roads. 

Eventually Riomaggiore came into view. Many describe the villages of Cinque Terre as picturesque. I did not find that to be true while walking in the villages. They do look much prettier as they come into view from the boat. It also became clear why boats like ours cannot dock in anything other than pretty calm waters. We just sort of nose into a quayside, drop a gangplank, and passengers are disembarked and then embarked onto the boat. In remarkably short order we visited Riomaggiore, Monarola, Corniglia, and finally Vernazza where the entire HF group (the hard walking group had joined us) left the boat. I am not sure why we did not go all the way to the last village of Monterosso. Vernazza does seem to have more charm but it would have been nice to see all the villages from the sea and the timing as far as train to Bonassola goes doesn’t matter. We had nearly an hour to while away before catching our train at 18:30to Bonassola. 

This was a long day as we had left the hotel a bit before 08:30 and did not return to it until about 19:00. A lot of travel time, a fair bit of waiting, and plenty of enjoyable walking or other sightseeing along the way.

Stats: The walk today was just over 8.9km long. We ascended 150 meters and descended 500 meters. Those ascent and descent numbers are considerably lower than we had been expecting. The overall length of the walk was shorter than expected too but by not as much. We took 48 minutes off from walking but were moving for 3 hours 47 minutes. Under direct sun shine, mostly when walking the mountain road for about 3.5km, the temperature rose to about 83F. It was easily 10 degrees cooler in the shade.
La Spezia through trees


La Spezia harbor



Porto Venere fortress

coastal hamlet

4 of 5 villagesPhotos
   1    In the distance you can kind of see La Spezia. 
   2    Looking to the west and up towards Campiglia. 
   3    You start to get a sense of how large La Spezia is. Much bigger than we thought.
   4    The numbers you see on this sign are not distances but time. “AVG” refers to the name of the route: Alte Via Golfo (High Gulf Way). 
   5    We have about a mile to go and about 650 feet to descend. We are heading to what you see (more or less). Lots of it irregular steps to trudge down. 
   6    The fortress at the headland of Porto Venere.
   7    Little clusters of buildings, usually including a church, pop up all along the coastline. Most do not have access to the sea but we had a tough time spotting roads.
   8    The collage shows the 4 Cinque Terre village we passed on our boat trip

Friday, October 12, 2018

Bonassola and Cinque Terre Day 5 - La Spezia, Vernazza, and Monterosso

(Yes, I am skipping day 4 for now. I will get to it in the next message).

vernazza inner pool

Today was to be our fourth walking day. However, apparently when heavy weather threatens, the Cinque Terre National Park closes the coastal paths (wish I could find the website with that information). I am not sure we ever had heavy rains but the potential was certainly present and no doubt heavy weather is about if you just look at the pounding surf in the Cinque Terre villages like Vernazza and Monterosso (photos 2  and 3).

Instead of doing any walking most everyone , including us, went to La Spezia. The is a major town with a population of about 100,000 people. We found a contemporary art museum, a major fresh foods market, and what I hope will rate as the worst lunch of the entire trip.  There are many other museums like a naval history museum but we did not check them out.  After leaving La Spezia, we spent our afternoon checking out Vernazza and Monterosso before returning to Bonassola. Vernazza , like the other villages, may be small but it does not feel like it as two and three story buildings (maybe some are a bit taller) snuggle against each other running up and down the narrow streets that climb into the gorge the village sits in. I think the harbor is the prettiest we have seen with the protected pool (photo 1) and open cove (photo 2) making a great scene especially given the quality of the still wave-tossed seas. 

wave striking Vernazza outer harbor

Monterosso beach

We did not find the old town of Monterosso but did find a place for a nice coffee and a view of the pounding surf along Monterosso’s very long but narrow (far narrower than the beach at Levanto) beach.  The headland you see in photo 3 is where we came from on our first walk. It is where old ruins of monasteries sit and a path full of irregular steps that on our first daybtook me just over a half hour to descend (Mom did it in about 20 minutes).

waves at Bonassola beach

One last thought about today. I went down to the Bonassola beach around 17:30 to see how it compared today to the other beaches and previous days. The surf was certainly up. The water was not quite as green as it seemed in Vernazza and maybe the waves were breaking just a little less grandly on the outcrops of rocks. But as I walked back after taking photo  4 I did learn something else about the water here: it is still reasonably warm. In fact, I feel confident in saying the water, which some kids were splashing about in, was warmer here today than it felt yesterday under bright, much warmer, skies and calm surf at Levanto. After all, at Levanto I deliberately stepped into the sea while here it caught me by surprise and I did not flinch from cold just from the sudden fact of being a bit wet (got my shorts good

Thursday, October 11, 2018

Bonassola and Cinque Terre Day 3 - Walk 3 The Hamlets of Framura

On walk 2 we hiked between two of the Cinque Terre towns. That walk was notable for the seemingly thousands of rough-hewn steps of varying heights and widths that we had to ascend and descend. The views, when we had them, on the coastal path when it was level were lovely but we will likely remember the steps first and the views second. Therefore it is probably fair to say we wondered what a walk that worked its way through several hamlets in the area collectively known as Framura would be like.   

I believe the town of Framura is made of five hamlets whose names I do not know. I know we passed through Setta and Costa but we passed through at least some of the other hamlets too. The hamlets grew from the top of the hills down towards the sea which seems backwards until  you realize that the view from Costa provides lookouts superb views of both the sea and inland valleys.  

Our hiking did not actually begin until  10:57. The reason we did not start earlier was because we were scheduled to have lunch at an agritourismo.   We had the morning, a couple of hours, to spend in Bonassola.  The town is quiet now that high tourist season is done. However, I have a feeling that even at the peak Bonassola would feel nicer to us than the Cinque Terre villages. We certainly are enjoying our chances to walk along the beach, promenade, and through the quiet streets of the town.  That is pretty much what we did this morning. Along the way we got good close-up looks at a painting style that mimics real building stones. That is, a facade might look like brickwork until you run your hand over it and realize it is clever painting that has fooled your eye.  It was a nice way to spend the bulk of the morning before catching the train for the very short, one stop, ride to Framura.

It is probably best to think of the walk as an urban walk. After all, the first 3km are along paved paths of one type or another that wind ever upward through the hamlets. For the most part when you are climbing you are doing it on steps. Joy of joys these steps are much more regular in design. But we still had to ascend  well over 280 meters (Costa is at  about 290m). That is a lot of steps and that means you feel it. I did.  

Nice views of the rugged coastline came and went as we climbed. I am sure each hamlet has something to offer if you stop to check them out. The little playground at one, the coffee shop I think we passed in another,  the watchtower of Costa. 

We left Costa to go get lunch at the argritourismo. The walk changed. We had more ascending to do but the walk switched from paved paths to a dirt forestry road that continued to work its way up into the hills. It took about 20-25 minutes to reach the place and I know I enjoyed the change of walking from the climb up the paved paths to the forested mountain road.  The eatery, a farm and restaurant, was a lovely place to sit down and have a leisurely lunch. Pesto pasta with potatos (a typical itialian dish) with string beans was what we were treated to. They provided home produced red and white wines too but I am no judge of those. The pasta was nice though I think I preferred the pesto pasta we had for one of our dinner courses at the Pomieri Hotel in Sicily. Our group managed to spend a good hour chatting and eating.

We still had two-thirds of the walk to do: about 7km.  The walk took us around the top of the valley along an actual mountain trail. Completely enjoyable walking through the pine, cork and chestnut forest. We gradually descended towards a dirt mountain road that we would take for several kilometers winding our way down towards sea-level and the Framura train station.  It was a lovely afternoon even though the sun did beat down upon us with  great force. The temperature under the sun was in the low-mid 80s (under the sheltering canopies of the tables at lunch the temperature was easily 10 degrees F cooler). As we walked and talked (OK, I did little of the latter) some heavier clouds began to mass over the area of the train station. They just floated there and no rain came from them. They did make for a more stunning sky.

We reached the seaseide town a littel before 16:00. The last kilometer or so would treat us once more to steps. It would not be a proper walk in this part of Italy if you did not have steps of some type to climb up and down.  We reached the train station at about 16:25. Our train would to arrive at 17:01. No one chose to walk the extra 3km through the old railway tunnel that now serves as a cycle and pedestrian path back to Bonassola. Given that our train was actually 10 minutes late it is likely we could have walked back to the hotel more quickly and spared our rears the uncomfortable benches at the train station. But I think everyone was happy to wait for the train and not pound the pavement anymore. It was an enjoyable walk. The best walk we have do so far at least in part because it featured a good dose of variety.

Stats: The walk ended up being about 10.3km long. It was a “circular walk” though hardly a circle in shape. That means our ascent and descent were effectively the same: about 340 meters. We spent two hours and ten minuts resting but I am confident an hour of that ws spent at our lunch stop. We actually were moving for about 3 hours and 20 minutes. Under the sun the temeprature soared to about 84F though in the shade it was certainly cooler. While clouds slowly moved in as the afternoon progressed I certainly never felt as if rain threatened (none came). 

Parent on the Bonassola beach

tral or not

Anzo tree

sea and land at Costa

heading down to Framura


  1. Mom and Dad on the modest beach in Bonassola. The water is clear. 
  2. Look carefully at three window on this building in Anzo . We think the top one is a painted window rather than a real window. 
  3. Sure the tree is dead but still pretty. 
  4. Coastal and inland views from Costa. 
  5. Heading towards Framura. The dramatic sky looks more ominous than it is. 

Bonassola and Cinque Terre Day 2 - Walk 2 Walking and Train Hopping

Overcast gave way to clear blue skies. With that change came greater heat but the humidity seemed far lower. We decided to do the easier walk which we felt would have better things to see and less climbing on steps. It turned out that the walk would have to be modified but I will get to that.

We hopped on the efficient though infrequent train for the short single stop  run to Levanto where we picked up another train to go to Vernezza. This village was struck particularly hard during floods of 2011. We walked by a small stone chapel, looks more like a jail, that had been pretty much covered by mud and debris to its single-story roofline.  

The defining feature of walks here is that they have to leave and enter the gorges the villages sit in. We climbed up steep roads that would quickly take us to the Cinque Terre coastal path. Rough cut steps took us up and up. Given we would ascend almost 200 meters that is a lot of steps. The path, when not climbing, is stone. I suppose it is a bit more than 4 feet wide and a wooden fence runs along the cliffside edge. That fence probably would not stop you from falling through but it should provide some comfort as a solid edge marker. Still I suspect if you are prone to worrying about heights this path could be a challenge. Views of the craggy coastline are quite good.

Up we went. The steps continued. The sweat poured off my body. It was certainly getting warmer as we mounted the uneven steps. Sometimes we passed through forests of trees of unknown types. Sometimes we passed people coming the other way or have people catch up to us.  The views were becoming less frequent. The uneven steps with uncertain landings and varying widths seemed to becoming more frequent. Even for sighted people with depth perception I am sure they become tiresome. More than that for me. Down we went. More people came up from the village below. This path must be thronged during peak season. In time sounds of music drifted to us. I figured it was someone’s radio or stereo playing. Near the end of the path, certainly within 5 minutes of the paved road (which is still a few hundred meters downhill to the village), we found the musicians playing an accordian and something jingly. I recognized what they were playing at the time though I could not name it. At this point I can’t summon a melody to mind though I know if I hear it again I will have an “a ha” moment. Hard working buskers. I hope many others besides Dad gave them money.

It took just over 2 hours to walk between the two villages. The defining feature of the walk has to be the steps. The village of Corniglia feels much smaller than any of the others we have seen. Perhaps this is because unlike the other village Corniglia sits about 120 meters above sea-level. That must have impacted things. We strolled to a viewpoint, had gelato, and generally just sat for a time. While the village may be small it is still a busy. The coastal path to Monarolla unfortunately is closed due to landslides having made it impassable. I do not know when they happened but it seems to me this is something the village would want cleared up because it is quite clear this coastal path is a key feature of the tourism that drives these tiny villages.

As we were about to tramp down to the train station the people doing the tougher walk showed up. They had come from somewhere else. Must have been an inland somewhere else. They took the coastal path to Vernezza. We walked down to the train station. Guess what: we had to descend steps. Proper regular steps that were even decently marked so they were not a real chore for me. We still had several hundred steps to travel down as we descended about 75 meters to the train station.

For the next 3 hours we checked out the even busier villages of Monarola and Riomaggiore. The latter was busier and I think less enjoyable. Neither is a place I would really choose to visit for their own sake.  We found a nice viewpoint after sitting just above the clear waters of the Ligore sea. It may be cool but clearly not chilly as people were swimming. Probably felt good given the temperature in the sun was easily in the high 70s and I think likley 80.

We watched masses of people, including huge groups including our first large Asian groups, move on by. We were glad to board the 16:30 train that took us back to our hotel. It lacks the shops and eateries of the fiveCinque Terre towns but not having all the people is a plus.

Stats: A clear and much warmer day today. The official walk between Vernezza and Corniglia was 3.9km. We climbed up about 181 meters and descended 124 meters. We walked through the villages and so no doubt extended all those numbers quite a bit. After all, we walked down to each harbor and up to some viewpoints so I’d not be surprised if we tacked on 2 to 2.5 miles.  But I think we could have happily skipped Riomaggiore.  Walking time was 2 hours and we took 30 minutes of breaks.

Me. Anove Vernazza

Corniglia Cliffs

Sea side at Monarolla


  1. Leaving Vernazza. Steps. 
  2. We have arrived on Corniglia. Looking back you can see the cafe we pause at before starting our descent of countless rough-hewn steps. 
  3. At the sea in Monarola

Wednesday, October 10, 2018

Bonassola and Cinque Terre Day 1 - Walk 1 Bonassola to Monterossa

The festival of Roserio which I think is both a regligious festival and a commemoration of a battle fought in 1571 peeked with the fireworks display I have already written about. Live music blasted for another hour or so. I did not get a good long night of sleep. I got enough I suppose. We decided to tackle the longer walk that would take us from our hotel here in Bonassola to Monterossa via Levanto. The Cinque Terre,Five Lands, are towns that nestle in valleys of various sizes along the coast. Centuries ago they were trading ports and some were quite well enough indeed. Today the support of thriving tourist industry is crucial for their economies. Bonassola while nearby is not part of the five lands though it too has thrived though today its permanent population is perhaps 500 or so people (swells to over 5,000 during high tourist season).  

If you don’t use a boat to get from village to village you have to climb up and to go from place to place. The mountains rise 12-1500 feet. Romans used the paths we would follow thousands of years ago. I hope they made their steps a bit more even.

We left under mostly sunny skies at 09:50. Our group had 9 people including our leader Sandra. We walked along the streets of Bonassola before turning uphill on narrow roads. Those became more alleyways before changing to paths of dirt and stone-hewn steps. We began to seriously ascend out of the valley.  The views were actually not that good as it was hazy. In time we finished the climb and were on the ridge that separates Bonassola and Levanto. Time to drop back down. Steps and sometimes stony ground that couldn’t decide which way to lean. SLow going for me though your average hiker won’t find the descent really that challenging though even they will curse the uneven heights of the rough steps.  We clearly were not in a hurry as we walked down to the beachfront of Levanto.  We had made a minor mistake early on and taken a break or two along the way so it was 11:20 and we had only gone about 3km beofre taking a coffee break. 

We would soon leave the much busier village and begin our second and far lengthier climb. Levanto sits in a deeper and larger valley than many of the villages I think. We began our climb up the narrow dirt path, including rough steps, and now and then views would open up showing us where we had come from. A bit hazy and hardly eye-popping but you get a sense of the terrain.We continued on up. Sweat poured off some of us as the humidity seemed to rise with the heat even as clouds filled the sky. Occassional showers of rain caused us to put rain-gear on and remove it minutes later. We continued up and slightly inland heading southeasterly towards Col Bagari. 

We found a spot with a not-half-bad view back towards Levanto for lunch. The view was better than lunch itself. Maybe Mom and Dad’s pizza-like slice were alright but my bread with onions was nothing special. Mere fuel.

We continued working our way around the mountains, tending to ascend, as the light showers resumed and then faded away. In time we reached the highpoint of the walk atCol  Bagari.  We stood at about 360 meters above sea-level and figured we had about 4km to go to reach Monterossa  which is at sea-level. The trail started to gently descend on generally good tread with some stones. As the clouds burned away and the fly population seemed to increase the trail became more sandy. We were following trail 581 which is frequently blazed. Our path was taking us out to the top of a headland and now and then we could see water on both sides. To our west, starting into the sun, you couldn’t see much but looking the other way the water was a brilliant blue sitting in the cove where no doubt Monterosso  is located. 

We passed the ruins of an ancient abbey and then the descent, for me, slowed down. The gentle sandy trail changed to one full of rough hewn stone steps. Steps of different heights, different widths, with uncertain ground below each step. It took 32 minutes to go down all those steps. I understand Mom was only waiting for about 5 minutes (seems hard to believe). We joined a paved road that continued to wind down the mountain past homes built into the side of the mountain. In about 20 minutes we reached the train station in what is clearly a very busy tourist town.  Our walk was done. We were happy with our first walk. It had a variety of views and terrain. 

Stats: 11.2km walk.  Ascent and descent were 536 meters. We took a lot of breaks on this walk: 93 minutes. we walked for 4 hours 54 minutes. Weather was overcast with occassional  showers during the early afternoon that gave way to sunshine later on. It was humid with a high temperature that probably touched 75F.

Levanto and Dad


Steps abound

looking back on Lavanto

view at lunch

view of Monterossa and Mom


  1. Heading down into Levanto. 
  2. It looks like Levanto has a nice beach which I suspect we will return to later in the week.
  3. Leaving Levanto we first had to climb its streets. Of course, that means steps. When the steps in town were left behind we would climb rough-hewn stone steps on dirt paths that would climb out of the valley.
  4. We have quite a bit of climbing to still do but you can how a town is squeezed in between valleys.
  5. Looking back from our lunch break. Not far from the walk’s high point at Col Bagari.
  6. We have been descending for a while now and it is about to get nasty as we leave the ruins of an old monetary. This is actually one of the last really good views as the descent is surrounded by trees.