Tuesday, July 16, 2019

Alaska Day 7 - Carter and Crescent Lakes

Wouldn’t you know it we woke up to find it was overcast and cool. We had breakfast and I think we really wanted to get out on a trail earlier than we did but it was just after 09:00 when we pulled into the trailhead parking lot a few miles distant from our guesthouse. Today we would see what Carter and Crescent Lake had to offer us. Jeff, the owner of the Inn we are staying at (it,s his daughter who hosted the Air B&B and she set us up in this guesthouse) told us yesterday that although it is a climb to the lakes they are in god’s country and therefore lovely. We decided to give it a go - being less than 5 miles away is a big plus.

The trail starts out wide, feels like an old road, but soon narrows down to typical trail dimension. More than narrow enough for the plants on either side to encroach on to the trail. All sorts of plants from cow parsnip (what I mistakenly called cow parsley in previous posts), ferns, and all manner of other plants are growing here. It gets quite thick. I hope whoever, if anyone, maintains the trail is able to come through with a team of people with loppers to trim things back. As promised we climbed up into the mountains. It is a steady climb but the footing is good and the scenery make up for the effort, marred slightly at the start of the hike by the fact that the one lane hightway to Seward seems to be full of traffic making plenty of noise.

Not long after we began our ascent it began to rain, light rain at first but over time it did intensify. But I know I got more wet, my feet to be sure, from the plants I was always brushing by and through. The rain is a bit disheartening but we were comfortable enough in the 56F weather. Up we went. After about two-thirds of a mile of steady climbing the traffic noise faded to nothing. We continued on. As expected the climbing eased off about 1 mile in. We had done pretty much all the ascending we would do, about 1,000 feet, and whatever was left would be just little dips here and there. The rain eased off somewhat too. We actually had dry spells and, for a few minutes, a patch of blue sky drifted overhead. We had entered the meadows that surround Carter Lake and are surrounded by mountains that rise far higher, mountains that had some snow on their slopes and clouds clinging to them as well. It is a wonderful place to walk through even though you cannot avoid getting wet from water transfer from the foliage that has encroached on the trail (do you sense a theme?). It is a wide area full of wildflowers though the ones we noticed were fire weed.

In time Carter Lake came into view. It was lightly raining again so we were not going to just stand there and gaze out on the lake. However, I am confident (confirmed later) that people do spend plenty of time there. Instead we pushed on to go the extra mile through the meadows and stands of trees to Crescent Lake a mile away. We did eventually see Crescent Lake just after passing through a small sheltering stand of trees. As the lake came into view the wind picked up and the rain got a bit stronger too. We were not going to hang out or go on. Instead it was time for lunch and that sheltered spot was the place to have our meal: a standing-up meal to be quickly eaten before moving on.

Photo  taken July 15 2019 at 10:29

The rain has been steadily falling for the past hour or so. We climbed about 1,000 feet over the first mile and are probably another half mile or so further along the trail at this point.

--July 15 2019 at 10:29. Moose Pass, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 15 2019 at 10:49

We are working our way through an alpine meadow. This field of fire weeds is just one thing that has caught our attention as we move along the narrow, often foliage choked, trail towards Carter Lake..

--July 15 2019 at 10:49. Moose Pass, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 15 2019 at 10:59

The wind was strong enough the cause these wavelets to march steadily across Carter Lake. It might have actually been a dry spell when I took this picture but those were few and far between.

--July 15 2019 at 10:59. Moose Pass, AK, United States

On the way back the enjoyment increased as we were treated to the distinctive calls of Common Loons that must have been hanging out on Carter Lake. The Common Loon is one of those iconic birds, especially with their calls, that evoke thoughts of the north, mountains, and especially lakes. Being able to hear them as we moved through these lakes and alpine meadows was a treat. Too bad we never could see them.

As we began our descent we came upon two young woman carrying big baskets. They were up here to gather fire weed they would use to make, we think, a jelly (looks like you can also make pickles). They clearly had been up here before and knew the area. Nice to see people coming out even when it is not ideal. We continued on our separate ways. The descent was actually quite a bit easier than I expected it to be, not as such but not as bad as it might have been. The work involved in doing this hike and the wet feet I acquired because I was wearing non-waterproof shoes and no gaiters (that would have helped keep water transfer at bay) was well worth it for the scenery we got to see when in the alpine meadows.

Photo  taken July 15 2019 at 11:28

We just passed through a stand of evergreens that proved a great sheltering spot from the wind. As soon as we got in view of Crescent Lake the wind picked up along with the rain. We had intended to go farther but decided that this view was good enough and that it was time for lunch. The little stand of trees we had just passed through was the best spot we were likely to find for a quick standing lunch that afforded protection from the elements.

--July 15 2019 at 11:28. Moose Pass, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 15 2019 at 11:43

Heading back from our little sheltered spot where we had lunch. It is raining again as we head back. While the weather wasn’t ideal it also helped provide interesting views of mountains and clouds like this one.

--July 15 2019 at 11:43. Moose Pass, AK, United States

At A glance

  • Total Distance: This is an out-and-back trail covering about 6.6 miles to that first vie of Crescent Lake.
  • total Ascent and Descent: About 1,000 feet ascent and descent. The vast majority of the climbing is done from the trailhead to the meadow over the first mile.
  • total Time: We were out for about 4 hours 40 minutes and took 40 minutes in breaks.
  • Weather: Overcast. It was sprinkling or a light rain for the bulk of the time we were out hiking.

Monday, July 15, 2019

Alaska Day 6 - Winner Creek Trail

You will not be surprised, dear reader, to learn that when we woke up this morning it was overcast. However, it seemed to us that the air must be clearer than previous days as we could see mountains from Anchorage a bit more distinctly. Today we would depart Anchorage and make our way to the area of Seward, Alaska. In fact, we are abou a half-hour drive north of Seward.Our original plan had us staying at an Air B&B in Seward but due to the heatwave (which was even worse in the Kenai Peninsula than Anchorage) causing massive amounts of snowmelt which in turn caused septic fields to become unusable we had to make other arrangements. Our Air B&B host felt really bad about having to cancel the original booking but lined up another place for us that she has access too, her father’s inn and a full-size house on the property.

The downside: it is about a half-hour north of Seward.

We were in no hurry to get to the new place so needed a hike to fill some time. We settled on the Winner Creek Trail. There are many trails that lead away from the Alyeska Resort. This is one of them. We decided to hike out to Winner Creek and the human-powered tram that you can use to cross the roaring creek. On the far side are additional trail that lead to places including Crow Mine. The trail is 2.5 miles long (one way) and you probably gain and loose about 250 feet over that distance. It is, according to the information we had, a very much improved trail. Gravel tread ways, long boardwalks, and well graded hard pack. A few roots intrude here and there but even I can get by without trekking poles. It is an easy walk. But just because it is easy does not mean it is not worthwhile. We strolled through forest that must see plenty of rain. All sorts of plants were growing along the trail. Surprisingly few wildflowers but many plants. Evergreens of unknown types and deciduous trees now and then. It felt much more forest-like than anything we had seen to date.

It was a pretty quiet trail. A bird sang now and then but the sound we heard most, eventually, was the rushing water of Winner Creek. Even voices of the many people we would pass did not really intrude to much (the music one person had playing as they went by did). The most jarring sound, and it seemed to get more frequent as the day progressed, was the noise of helicopters flying by. I suspect they are running tours to the nearby glaciers. From what a woman told us it really is a great tour.

Photo  taken July 14 2019 at 10:24

The Winner Creek Trail is a very much improved trail. Gravel, boardwalks, and hardpacked dirt make up the trail. A large portion of the trail can be biked. It is an easy walk and well worth it.

--July 14 2019 at 10:24. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 14 2019 at 10:51

Our first crossing of Winner Creek. Torrents of water are flowing under this stout wooden bridge. Photo by Judy

--July 14 2019 at 10:51. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 14 2019 at 10:52

Photo by Judy of Ken working to capture the surging Winner Creek below.

--July 14 2019 at 10:52. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 14 2019 at 10:53

Winner Creek roars down this cataract and under the bridge I am standing on.

--July 14 2019 at 10:53. Anchorage, AK, United States

The bulk of the descent (and later on the return ascent) is done as you walk along a gorge that I suppose Winner Creek created. If this is a creek it must be a big one. Water cascades in torrents. Frothing cataracts tumble down rocks. It is a wonderful creek. At the 2.5 mile mark you reach the human-powered tram. It was built over a 3 year period from 2002 to 2005. I am going to say the hand tram spans easily 120 feet over Winner Creek tumbling well over 100 feet below. I joined a lady who was extending her completed business trip for a couple days and we squeezed into the green metal cage to make the crossing. With a person pulling on the rope at a tram station passengers in the car really are superfluous as you can’t pull the rope yourself effectively as it zips through the cage. If you had to do the work by yourself you certain could but it will be tiring and take longer. While moving I found the ride pretty stable. Granted we were trying to stay still and not rock the cage. BUt the worst bit of the ride was getting in and getting out when the cage did rock a bit.

Photo  taken July 14 2019 at 11:19

Dad is working hard to pull the hand tram across the gorge Winner Creek has carved out down below. We think the tram spans easily 120 feet and is certainly far more than 100 feet above the raging water flowing below.

--July 14 2019 at 11:19. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 14 2019 at 11:20

I am returning from the far side of Winner Creek. I don’t honk we had gone all that far when I snapped this photo.

--July 14 2019 at 11:20. Anchorage, AK, United States

We did not go beyond the creek crossing to hike the last mile to Crow Creek Mine. After I returned across the creek (Mom and Dad did not ride the hand tram) we returned to the trailhead at Alyeska Resort. By this time it was early afternoon and the overcast was clearly not going to lift. I saw a shadow appear for perhaps 15 seconds one time. Now and then a sprinkling of rain would make its way through the tree to dampen our skin. The dampest thing we encountered was the bench we sat on for lunch and that was not all that moist. This was a thoroughly enjoyable 5 mile hike.

Now we are in our guesthouse next to an inn in Moose Pass. It is a house with charm though we are discovering some quirks. We will get by. Since we don’t expect to find a restaurant in Moose Pass we will make a trip to Seward and the Safeway to stock up on all the food we will need for the next several day. We already know there are several hikes that are pretty near here that we can do. That is good as we don’t really want to drive to Seward more than we have to.

Photo  taken July 14 2019 at 19:45

The view looking south from our guesthouse here in Moose Pass, Alaska. As I took this picture directly over my head a sliver of blue sky appeared. It was a small sliver and it either moved to a different spot or has vanished already. However, the air is clear even though it is overcast and south of here rather closer to Seward it was raining.

--July 14 2019 at 19:45. Moose Pass, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 14 2019 at 19:57

The sun is brightening a spot in the western sky. It never quite burst through; perhaps it is better say say the clouds never cleared enough.

--July 14 2019 at 19:57. Moose Pass, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 14 2019 at 19:58

Looking to the east from our guesthouse. This view is certainly better than the ones out of my or my parent’s bedrooms. We really are in a nice little area.

--July 14 2019 at 19:58. Moose Pass, AK, United States

At A Glance

  • Total Length: 5 miles (out and back trail)
  • Total Ascent and Descent: about 250 feet ascent and descent one way. Gentle up and then a bit steeper descent as you follow the gorge. Superb footing.
  • Total Time: About3 hours 20 minutes with 40 minutes in breaks. I’m guessing a lot of that was at the hand tram.
  • Weather: Overcast but clear air with occasional sprinkles and a temperature that hovered at 60F.

Sunday, July 14, 2019

Alaska Day 5 - Byron Glacier and the Blue Ice Trail

The day dawned overcast. But it seemed to be a bit clearer of an overcast than yesterday. We wanted to do a couple hikes that would not go doggedly up one side of a mountain and down the other. A hike with undulations would have been fine. What we found would turn out to be, as the guides and maps suggested, virtually flat. We were fine with that. The weather at the Portage Lake Begich Boggs Visitor Center (named for two congressmen who died in a plane crash en route from Anchorage to Juneau) was somewhat less than ideal. A bit windy, temperature in the mid-upper 50s, and spritzing. Perhaps the weather would keep people away from what is reportedly a busy trail leading to the Byron Glacier.

In reality the weather turned out not to be nearly as bad as it first seemed.Yes, we put on our rain gear and some of us were particularly bundled up, but it wasn’t really precipitating and once out of the wind was not bad while you kept moving along the gravel trail. Over the next 0.9 miles we wound our way towards the face of many snowfields that pour off the mountains feeding no doubt frigid water into Byron Creek. It is a stroll suitable for anyone. We would pass a few people, some with dogs (dogs seem popular here), as we headed towards Byron Glacier. If you took your gaze off the soaring mountains you would quickly spot stands of fire weed and , I think, cow parsley along with some little tiny white flowers now and then. It is a pretty walk.

Photo  taken July 13 2019 at 10:20

Fire weed seems to be common up here. We saw many plots growing along the Byron Glacier Trail. You can see one of the several snowfields pouring down off the mountain releasing its meltwater into Byron creek.

--July 13 2019 at 10:20. Anchorage, AK, United States

At the snowfields the temperature dropped as chilly air blew off the snow. It is an area of stark beauty. It could be a place worth spending time and soaking in the splendor but for that chill wind and moisture in the air. It wasn’t a spot we felt like lingering at. On the way back we did not have any reason to really stop so made the return trip back in about 25 minutes. It was a lovely 1.8-mile round trip with practically no elevation change.

Photo  taken July 13 2019 at 10:28

The only spots of color beyond white, black and gray you are likely to find at the end of the Byron Glacier Trail are going to be found in the clothing of people and fur coats coats of the dogs that are with their people. It is a pretty area nonetheless though the chilly breeze does help ensure you likely will not linger.

--July 13 2019 at 10:28. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 13 2019 at 10:34

Behind Ken the snowfields and glacier extend. I suppose if you had the right gear and were part of an experienced team you could risk traveling across the snow and ice but I wouldn’t risk it. Photo by Judy

--July 13 2019 at 10:34. Anchorage, AK, United States

After a visit to a nearby cafe for a hot drink (so so coffee) we found our way to the Blue Ice Trail. Signs in the area are not the best and the directions we got from the visitor center left us a bit confused so it took us a bit longer than it should have to find the trailhead even though it is just before the entrance to the parking lot. The Blue Ice Trail is a bike trail and paved and graded accordingly. The trail, one way, is almost 6 miles long. We decided we would go just as far as we felt like and turn around. On this trail you find yourself walking through some woods. As with the Byron Glacier Trail, the forest seems to have quite a preponderance of evergreen with a smattering of deciduous trees thrown in for good measure. Along the sides of the trail now and then a small meadow pops up full of fire weed and no doubt other plants. A pond appears now and then.

Being a bike trail we did get passed by a family of four cyclists. I would not be surprised if the family were camping in the campground that is about a half mile off the trail. One cyclist had a dog running along with her. But it really was not a busy trail. I think I could feel comfortable biking the trail and it is clearly the best way to go if you want to cover the whole trail. But we enjoyed our stroll well enough.

Photo  taken July 13 2019 at 12:49

The Blue Ice Trail is a bicycle path. It travels through forests with many evergreens and somewhat fewer and shorter deciduous trees. Now and then a field full of flowers like this one crammed full with fire weed makes a wonderful bit of eye candy.

--July 13 2019 at 12:49. Anchorage, AK, United States

Postscript: We stopped at the Alaskan Wildlife Conservation Center. It is an interesting place but a bit sad. I am not sure it was worth the $14 per senior ($16 adult) we paid. Yes, we were able to see some animals exceptionally close. Close enough so that could reach through the fence and easily touch them (not something I would suggest doing). But the facilities struck as sad looking. I have a hard time imagining the animals from the porcupine to the 4 wolves, moose and elk to name some are really having a good time even though I expect they are well cared for. Finally, we made a quick visit to what must be the largest REI I have ever seen.

Photo  taken July 13 2019 at 14:03

This moose is about as close as you probably think he is. Laying down, chewing his cud, just beyond a fence of widely spaced heavy wire that rises 8-10 feet from the ground. This moose is part of the collection of animals at the Alaskan Wildlife Conservation Center. I am sure the people there do well by the animals present but it still feels a bit sad and also, given the admission fee, a bit mercenary.

--July 13 2019 at 14:03. Anchorage, AK, United States

At A Glance - Byron Galcier Trail

  • Total Length: Just under 2 miles round trip.
  • Total Ascent and Descent: 144 feet up going to the snowfields; 144 feet descending on the way back.
  • Total Time: we probably spent just a bit over an hour out. Call it 80 minutes.
  • Weather: Overcast and a bit breezy with some moisture in the air and a temperature of perhaps 58F cooling at the snowfields.

At A Glance - Blue Ice Trail

  • Total Length: We hiked just under 1.8 miles out on the trail; so about 3.4 total since we took a shortcut at the end on the way back.
  • Total Ascent and Descent: 40 feet up and down.
  • Weather: Pretty much did not change from the Byron Glacier Trail though it might have been a degree or 2 warmer.

Saturday, July 13, 2019

Alaska Day 4 - Twin Peaks Trail at Lake Eklutna

Overcast again. However, as we drove towards Lake Eklutna we saw no signs of the shrouding mist that we had so much of yesterday. I was imagining a trail that would wind up into the mountains with frequent views of a lake below and forests mixed with glades full of wildflowers. If only that had been what we got it would have been special: we got something rather less. It looks like a lot goes on around Lake Eklutna. You can rent bicycles and kayaks. It is probably a nice lake to kayak though it lacks a grand glacier to absorb your attention. We found our way to the Twin Peaks trail and began our hike. Up. Up. Around a bend. Up. The old dirt road we were following kept climbing through a forest of birch trees. You could not see much of anything. No wildflowers blooming along the roadside. Just steep hillside on either side of the road and no views. Up. Up. Up.

Photo  taken July 12 2019 at 12:57

After climbing steadily for 1.5 miles gaining 1050 feet along an old dirt road built by the military for who knows why (it dead ends about 1 mile further) we found this lookout spot. It was a good place to stop and have lunch. You can see Lake Eklutna down below.

--July 12 2019 at 12:57. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 12 2019 at 13:32

Someone had a bad day. You can just see the car, a station wagon we think, peaking through the foliage down the slope from the road.

--July 12 2019 at 13:32. Anchorage, AK, United States

We enjoy hiking. We are far less happy when the hiking is a relentless up (or down) with little variation. Yesterday was similar but at least it felt more interesting even though we had no views because of the mist. Today was a slog. We were looking for a bench that we could sit on and enjoy a view. It was supposedly 1.5 miles up the trail. Perhaps we stopped just a bit too soon but we had found a place we could step off the trail to a good view and have lunch. We stopped. After lunch we decided to forgo finding the bench (the trail probably had another mile to go) and just began going: down, down, down, around bends, and down.
This may be a lovely hike but it is hard to imagine it being so. I think if we return to the area we would explore the lakeshore trail and perhaps paddle on Lake Eklutna but I doubt I would choose Twin Peak Trail again. Perhaps the “high point” of the day was our stop at Rochelle’s Ice Cream store which is just a few minutes drive from Lake Eklutna. The sundaes are a bit pricy but a tasty cookies and cream hot fudge sundae with nuts and a dollop of whipped cream eases a lot of things.

Photo  taken July 12 2019 at 14:32

--July 12 2019 at 14:32. Anchorage, AK, United States

At A Glance

  • Total Distance: About 3.2 miles out and back from the trailhead. Parking is a bit more than 0.1 miles away.
  • Total ascent and descent: about 1,050 feet up and 1,050 feet down. It is a pretty constant climb on a dirt road.
  • Weather: overcast with a high around 60F.
  • Total Time: 2 hours 20 minutes with 33 minutes in breaks.

Friday, July 12, 2019

Alaska Day 3 - Portage Pass Trail

Yesterday we had to contend with a few things beyond our control so our plans changed. It all worked out for the best as among other things we had a chance to visit the Anchorage Museum which I highly recommend people do. Its primary focus is on the native Alaskan people and their culture. You will see examples of art, clothing, history presented in both good and bad ways (i.e., rather tacky approaches that were taken by westerners - Americans - as the age of mass media took hold). There is plenty to see and the majority of the museum is free.
Today we got a somewhat late start but eventually we found ourselves driving along the Tarmigan Arm towards Whittier. It was cool and overcast but as we passed by various lookouts we found some people out and about. Perhaps they were looking for birds or hoping to spot a baluga whale cruising offshore. The time was, I think, wrong for a bore tide to rumble on by (something we hope to see). After passing through the 2.5-mile long tunnel that is used by both automobiles and trains (a first for us and perhaps unique) we soon found the trailhead for Portage Pass Trail. When we were on the other side of the mountain it was overcast but somewhat clear. As we stepped out of the car we found it was now misty and precipitating ever so slightly.
The trail climbs up and over Portage Pass and down to Portage Lake which is at the base of Portage Glacier. The footing is hardpacked dirt with some loose stones liberally sprinkled about. It is hard to see why trail-builders, actually road builders as the trail was originally an old military road, would haul rocks up to lay on the path but perhaps they did just that. As we the somewhat steeper grade towards the pass the mist/fog seemed to settle around us wiping out any views that may have been present earlier. A few types of birds sang to each other as we went by but although we had seen numerous cars in the parking lot we seemed to be alone.

Photo  taken July 11 2019 at 12:50

We are just below Portage Pass and the mist has really settled around us. There are no views more than a modest distance away. But we learned that we should go on because the mist clears down below at Portage Lake. We were going to retreat until we learned this.

--July 11 2019 at 12:50. Anchorage, AK, United States

When we reached the pass, about 1 mile in and not quite 800 feet higher in elevation, we found everything obscured by the mist. To say this was disappointing would be fair. We actually were going to turn around and head back down when a fellow in shorts and a T-shirt with a dog came towards us and happily told us the views improved and the scene at Portage Lake was clear and fine. With that encouragement we climbed over the pass and began the second half of the hike.

Photo  taken July 11 2019 at 13:14

The trail is narrow and most times wholly surrounded by folliage. We passed by a lot of cow parsley and now and then vibrant groups of plants like these fire weeds Mom and Dad are standing in.

--July 11 2019 at 13:14. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 11 2019 at 13:58

We are getting closer to the end: still 20 minutes out. We had a very distant view of Portage Glacier a little earlier but this is the first really good view. Look, the mist has eased off. Or, more accurately, we have just gotten below the level of the mist.

--July 11 2019 at 13:58. Anchorage, AK, United States

Over the next 1.25 miles we passed by barely visible Divided Lake. We could hear streams pouring down the mountain but rarely saw them. The trail was level in places but did descend perhaps 400 feet to the lake (a puzzle to me as cruises are done on the lake and I am pretty sure they start at a point that is 70 feet lower in elevation than we we ended the outbound hike). The mist lifted and we finally started seeing the people who the cars must belong too. This is a busy trail but we were able to ignore the people pretty easily as we rarely clumped together. Eventually we caught glimpses of Portage Lake while still a ways off. We could tell we were in for a treat as the glacier also came into view.

Photo  taken July 11 2019 at 14:13

Portage Lake. At the lakeshore the wind picks up and the temperature drops a few degrees. But we all agree the scenery is worth a small chill. To reach this point you hike about 2.25 miles gaining almost 800 feet in the first mile and then descending About 650 feet over the next 1.25 miles. The footing is good though the trail does have small rocks strewn about. I expect most can make the hike in 90 minutes; we took nearly 120 on the way out and 90 on the way back.

--July 11 2019 at 14:13. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 11 2019 at 14:14

Portage Lake is 3 miles long and just under 0.9 miles wide at its widest point. Portage Glacier continues to retreat from the lake but I think it is calving far fewer icebergs into the water now than it once did decades ago probably because it has moved back from the lake.

--July 11 2019 at 14:14. Anchorage, AK, United States

When we reached the lake we found some people there but it was pretty quiet. The scenery was worth the misty climb up and over the pass and down the the lake.

![Photo taken July 11 2019 at 15:46 ](https://assets.libsyn.com/images/wanderingknight/July-11-2019-1546.jpeg

Nearing the parking lot on our return trip. Mom long ago vanished into the mist though she probably was only a minute or so ahead of Dad and me. I think we must be looking out to Tarmingan Arm which is, I believe, part of Cook Inlet.

--July 11 2019 at 15:46. Whittier, AK, United States

It was windy at the shore and noticeably cooler. Still we settled down for a bite to eat before retracing our steps. We made it back to the car, retracing the 2.25 miles from clear to mist and clear again, in about 90 minutes. This is a hike well worth doing even if the weather and viewing conditions were not all they could have been.

At A Glance

  • Total Distance: 4.5 miles out and back
  • Total ascent and descent about 1,300 feet
  • Total time: about 4 hours we about 33 minutes in breaks
  • Weather: overcast with a temperature around 60F. Around the region of the pass, about 800 feet in elevation, it was very misty. You could not see much of anything. At Portage Lake it was wonderfully clear though still overcast.

Wednesday, July 10, 2019

Alaska Day 1 - Dew Mound

First let us get an important fact out in the open: if you are tired and do not feel hot and sticky it does not matter that it remains light well past 23:30 and that sunrise will only be about 4 hours after that. Of course, if you are feeling hot because the air is still and your Air B&B does not have AC falling asleep is a bit harder. Mom and Dad fared better than I did (and to be fair AC is not something really needed here when typical temperatures top out at 68F towards the end of July). The heatwave is subsiding but temperatures are still well above normal. When we woke this morning the sun hung low in the sky blazing a brilliant orange. My guess is that the remarkable color owes something to the wildfires and the smoke they’re producing. At times today we did smell smoke in the air. I am also going to blame my scratchy morning throat on air quality. But we were ready for our first hike in Chugach State Park just after 09:00.
Mom had selected the Dew Mound hike which is just under 7 miles in length and has a total gain and loss of about 700 feet much of which happens near the halfway point of the loop. We had no real expectations. We began the walk on a well graded hard packed path that would take us to the Dew Mound trail proper (the whole hike is a lollipop shape). At that point the nature of the trail changed. Roots, roots, rocks, and roots. The treadway is actually well built but full of roots and rocks. You meander through a birch forest. Now and then a burbling stream can be heard and you might even cross it. We still do not know what the white fluffy cotton-like whisky things hanging from trees and on the ground were. Probably nothing good. While the area does have both black and brown bears we saw no sign (fine by me). Heard just a few birds now and then as we made our way through the forest.
Photo  taken July 09 2019 at 09:33

We are walking through a birch forest. Photo of Ken by Mom.

--July 09 2019 at 09:33. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 09 2019 at 10:52

The lookout point on the Dew Mound trail: about 3 miles in if you are going clockwise.

--July 09 2019 at 10:52. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 09 2019 at 10:58

I had such high hopes for this little lake. I was imagining a nice mountain lake I could dip my feet into. You can just make this little lake out through the dense foliage and I suspect if I had tried to push through to it I would have been unwilling to dip my feet in.

--July 09 2019 at 10:58. Anchorage, AK, United States

If the sky had not been hazy I expect the view from the lookout spot, about 3 miles in, would have been prettier. No amount of clear skies would have made the tiny Dew Lake more appealing. It is close to the trail but screened by the masses of foliage. I suspect it is not a wonderful lake in any event. However, all is made right when you catch your first proper view of eagle River another half mile further on. That also made a fine spot for lunch.
Photo  taken July 09 2019 at 11:47

Eagle River is the best feature along the Dew Mound trail. While we had lunch here a little further on you reach Echo Bend which actually is more scenic.

--July 09 2019 at 11:47. Anchorage, AK, United States

Photo  taken July 09 2019 at 11:53

Echo Bend on Eagle River.

--July 09 2019 at 11:53. Anchorage, AK, United States

Up and down, never large hills, we went. tapping over more roots and rocks until we passed a yurt people can rent. After that the trail footing got much easier and the grade much flatter. Eventually you close the loop and walk the last third of a mile (seems longer) on the same flat fully accessible path you started on when leaving the visitor center. It was a nice hike.

  • Distance: 6.6 miles
  • Ascent and descent: about 690 feet
  • Total Time: 4.5 hours with about 35 minutes in breaks
  • Weather: hazy, steadily warming from mid-60s to upper 70s.

Tuesday, July 9, 2019

VIDEO: Trees of Unusual Size

Photo  taken July 07 2019 at 15:08

--July 07 2019 at 15:08. Packwood, WA, United States

The Grove of the Patriarchs sits on an island reached via a suspension bridge that spans the Ohanapecosh River. A trail of about 0.5 miles of easy riverbank walking takes you to the bridge. Expect a line of people waiting to cross and see these majestic trees. Some of the cedars, firs, and alders are well over 200 feet tall and several hundred years old. It is a popular trail which can detract from the enjoyment of the moment but if you have a bit of time to spare, perhaps on your way to Sunrise, and like me have never seen such huge Douglas Firs or Red Western Cedars do stop.