Backpacking Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore- Memorial Day Weekend 2026

For over 20 years Andy has organized a trip to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. We usually go for four or five days over the Memorial Day weekend. The group hikes the Lakeshore Trail. However, this would be my first backpacking trip since shoulder surgery the previous fall so I decided to do something different and not slow others down. I’d spend time in the Beaver Creek wilderness before joining the group type the western part of the Lakeshore Trail.

▶️ Play Backpacking Pictured Rocks—May 2026

Photos

Patches of dense compressed snow linger on the Lakeshore Trail between Coves and Beaver Creek campgrounds. In a couple days they’l be much smaller though still not quite melted away.

--May 21, 2026 at 12:56 PM.

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It was rather windy on the beach so I settled down on top of the bluff to watch the sun set over Lake Superior.

--May 21, 2026 at 8:57 PM.

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I have no idea why someone would leave this camping gear, cheap gear, in the bear box. Other gear was hanging off of a tree. I guess somebody felt they had to hurry back to their car and so left this bulky and likely heavy gear behind. Bad behavior: definitely not leave no trace.

--May 22, 2026 at 8:23 AM.

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Time to try my baked here at Coves Group camp chocolate chip French-style yogurt cake. I baked this in my Hajka Outdoors Camp Oven: turned out rather well. Parker, for what it’s worth, gave it a 10 out of 10 though I suppose we need to give up a point or 2 for the enthusiasm of youth.

-- May 23, 2026 at 6:10 PM.

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Spray Falls.

-- May 24, 2026 at 8:54 AM

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We are pretty sure this gull is guarding a nest.

--May 24, 2026 at 1:00 PM.

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Andy and I came down to this Rocky beach to watch the sun set. Sunset will be in about 70 minutes. It should be lovely for us and the people on tour boats who will see the sandstone cliffs bathed in colors far more clearly than we will.

--May 24, 2026 at 8:08 PM.

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It turns out that the rocks Andy is standing over have an intriguing pattern on them. It’s just perceptible in the picture. Sunset is 10 minutes away.

--May 24, 2026 at 9:07 PM.

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Just a few more minutes to go before the sun dips below the horizon. We started our walk back to camp just after I took this photo. The group campsite is about 0.25 miles away and twilight was fully upon us when we returned to the site.

--May 24, 2026 at 9:21 PM.

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Miner’s Castle isn’t what it once was. Several years ago a turret-like piece came off. This is where my hike would end. Andy, Jill, John, and Parker continued, at a far faster pace, to Sand Point. They’d pick me up about an hour after I took this photo.

--May 25, 2026 at 2:24 PM.

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Food for the Afternoon: Smoked Devilled Eggs, Rustic Parsley Bread, Salad, Texas-Style Chili

▶️ Play Food for the afternoon

Smoked Devilled Eggs

Smoked devilled eggs. The peeled hard boiled egg was smoked for an hour. We then made a filling substituting sour cream for the mayonnaise. Mustard, horseradish, and some spices were also used to make the filling.

First make hard boiled eggs. Peel them. We then cold smoked the eggs for about one hour. We were impatient. I believe smoking the eggs for about 90 minutes would’ve produced more pronounced flavor. I also suspect that letting the eggs rest in a refrigerator overnight would also improve the flavor.

To make the filling for the deviled eggs remove the yolks from each egg and combine them with sour cream, mustard, a bit of horseradish, pinches of onion powder and garlic powder - probably should have used a bit more - and some salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Mix the filling into a stiff paste and stuff it back into the egg white cavities. Enjoy.

Rustic Parsley Bread

A rustic parsley bread and a nice green salad with a delicious homemade honey mustard vinaigrette dressing.

This was based on a no-knead dough. This is a very high hydration dough: about 90%. I used about 315 grams of bread flour, 5 grams sea salt, 5 grams sugar, about 3 tablespoons of chopped fresh parsley, 2 or 3 tablespoons (30-45 g) olive oil, a teaspoon of instant yeast, and 275 grams water. Typically, I think,you would let this dough rest on your countertop for 12 to 18 hours. I let the dough rest on my countertop for about six hours, placed it in the refrigerator overnight and then let it rest on the countertop for about another six hours during the proofing process. I did do some stretch-and-folds to improve the strength of the dough. I preheated my oven to 425°F and during that process also heated up a Dutch oven. I sprinkled the bottom of the Dutch oven with some flour, normally I would use parchment paper but I was out, to help keep the bread from sticking to the bottom of the Dutch oven. I baked the bread for about 30 minutes covered and then for another 10 to 15 minutes uncovered. I forgot to reduce the oven temperature, to about 400°F, at the 30 minute mark, but it did not seem to affect the quality of the bread.

Salad

This was a green salad with spinach, arugula, white onions, and sliced pickles. it was dressed with a homemade honey mustard vinaigrette: about 3 to 2 ratio of olive oil to apple cider vinegar. A hot cherry honey was used instead of plain honey; and a rich Dijon mustard was also used. The salad was topped with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

The Chili

Texas style chili. The meat was allowed to smoke for a couple of hours above the chili base before being placed into the chili mixture entire chili cooked for a bit over five hours.

This five-hour chili, and it could’ve cooked for longer, is a basic Texas style chili. That means no beans. The base of the chili is made up of sautéed red and white onions, about one head of roasted garlic, one 7-ounce can of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, about 42 ounces of canned diced tomatoes, one 12-ounce can of a porter-style beer, about 2 ounces of Mexican chocolate that was crumbled up, 2 teaspoons of ground cinnamon, and 6 tablespoons of chili seasoning by Meat Church.  I also made several large meatballs out of 2 pounds of ground beef that were seasoned lightly with the chili seasoning. The chili was placed inside the smoker and the meat was placed on a grill grate on top of the chili to smoke. After about two hours the meat was placed into the chili base, all cooking in a 5-quart Dutch oven, and chopped up. The entire chili was left to simmer for the next several hours. A bit of water was added along the way. 

A Hike in Torrey Pines State Park

After our morning visit to Cabrillo National Monument we visited the just re-opened Torrey Pines State Park. We were far from alone. It was bright and quite warm. As we slowly drove along the beach we saw scores of people walking by on the beach. Not the nicest walk with the traffic creeping by but they’re on a beach. Eventually we reached the parking lots at the top of the cliffs and figured out what we would do.

We would hike down to the beach and loop back up to complete a hike of perhaps 3 miles. We would pass by Razor Point. The trail is reasonably wide, sandy, and has many flattish slick rocks to step upon. The sand is what makes them trickier along with the fact that they tend to slope. For people with normal vision the trail and its grade shouldn’t pose much of a challenge. There are also a plentiful amount of steps to contend with. However, even though it was a bit tougher going than I thought it would be the views were quite fine and there was also plenty of bird activity to listen too.

The warning sign did give us a bit of pause. I am sure it was accurate about the number of steps. It also became clear that if you do go to the beach you’ll likely get a bit damp if the tide is much higher than the extreme ebb tide. We elected to not go all the way down because we were getting hot and we’re ready to climb back up. The climb up was a bit tiring with its numerous steps but less stressful than the descent. I think descending it would have been easier than what actually did descend. But we continued to enjoy the views and when we gained the cliff top we were ready for our snack break. The clementines hit the spot.

The hike, really a long walk with a bit of challenge,was 2.5 miles long with the bulk of the 310 feet of ascent and 310 feet of descent happening over 1.9 miles before we finished the last half-mile on the road.

A fly-over view of the walk.

Photos and Video

▶️ Play Hike in Torrey Pines State Park

We see Prickly Pear all the time in Tucson. But I am pretty sure we have never seen it in bloom.

--March 1, 2026 at 1:01 PM.

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Heading down towards the beach in Torrey Pines. This trail would be easy except it’s far from even footing: full of lumps, slick rock, and steps. Photo by Jonathan.

--March 1, 2026 at 1:27 PM.

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Should we be worried? You certainly do not want to be at the beach at high tide. I’m pretty sure these cliffs are sandstone which is hardly the strongest of materials.

--March 1, 2026 at 1:33 PM.

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We didn’t go down to the beach ( sigh) but you can see how close to the cliffs it is.

--March 1, 2026 at 1:47 PM.

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Red Braised Smoked Pork Jowl

It’s Sunday afternoon. The sun is shining on a clear blue sky, temperature is around 60°F, little wind. Baseball spring training is active and we have a Tiger’s game playing as we sit by the fire on the firepit.  It’s a fine day for good food including this smoked and braised pork jowl.
▶️ Play Red Braised Smoked Pork Jowl

This recipe was inspired by a recipe from the New York Times. I do suspect that using scallions (i.e. green onions) would probably have been better than using the small white onion I did use. Shoaxing wine would make , I think, a richer flavor than the mirin I used. Maybe a dry white wine would be good.

Ingredients

• 1.5-2 pounds pork jowl
• 1 small onion, sliced (or 3-4 green onions, chopped)
• 6-8 cloves garlic, minced (optional)
• 2 Tbs neutral oil
• 3 Tbs honey or hot honey
• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 1/4 cup
• Shaoxing wine or a bit less mirin ( former is likely better as it is drier in flavor)
• 1/2-1 tsp ground ginger or 2-4 thin sliced fresh ginger
• 1 cup water, beer, or stock
• 3 whole star anise

Instructions

1. This step is optional, but I cold smoked the pork jowl for about 90 minutes first. The original recipe suggests cubing the pork and then boiling it for a minute or so. I am not sure what this would accomplish that the braising for several hours would not, but maybe it cuts out some bad taste. Since I smoked the meat I did not do this boil.
2. Cut the pork into 1.5-2 inch chunks.
3. In a high sided pan or wok over a low medium heat warm the oil until it is just smoking. Then add the honey and garlic if you are using it. Raise the heat to a medium and let the mixture thicken and caramelize. The original recipe uses rock sugar instead of the honey. 
4. Place the pork jowl chunks in the sauce. This may need to be done in batches. Cook for a few minutes on each side to caramelize and brown the meat.
5. Add the onions or scallions, soy sauce, wine, stock liquid, ginger, and star anise. Use enough liquid to cover 1/2-2/3rds up the meat. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer.
6. Cover and simmer until the pork is tender. Over a lively fire on a pretty fast simmer this takes 2.5 to 3 hours.

The Original Point Loma Lighthouse in Cabrillo National Monument

This was not one of the places we had originally planned on visiting, but it turned out to be a worthwhile visit, even though we did not see all, or even close to all, it had to offer. The Cabrillo national monument celebrates Juan Rodriguez Cabrio, the Portuguese explore, who was the first European to set foot on the western coast of North America. Obviously, he was not the first person to trod this land since indigenous people have been populating the Americas for several thousand years. However, his voyage of discovery is still notable because it must have been a tremendous challenge to sail from Europe all the way around South America and up the Pacific Coast to what would later become known as San Diego Bay.

It was once again a bright sunny morning with temperatures steadily rising to an eventual high in the 80. We decided to walk along the Bayside Trail.   This trail starts at the Original Point Loma Lighthouse and descends to an overlook 90 feet above sea level that provides views across the bay towards San Diego. It is an easy walk along a paced and dirt road: one way its just under 1 mile.

Along the way there are many signs documenting what you will see: flora, fauna, and the man-made buildings that you pass by. During World War II hidden search lights were placed along the road. These were manned by soldiers and were designed to illuminate approaching boats that could then be targeted by artillery.

The most prominent feature of this hike has to be the Original Point Loma Lighthouse. It sits on top of the 400 foot high cliff and was active for a little less than 36 years: starting operation in 1855. It was the first lighthouse, I believe, on the western coast of North America coming into operation after California was admitted as a state to the United States. The lighthouse was replaced by the New Point Loma Lighthouse in 1891. That lighthouse sits only 90 feet above sea level on the tip of the peninsula. It turns out that positioning the original lighthouse 400 feet above sea level was problematic because fog and low clouds would obscure the light from view. 

Photos snd Video

▶️ Play Bayside Trail and Original Point Loma Lighthouse

This was taken the day before from the sun deck of the Mighty Marietta as we motored out of San Diego Bay on our whale watching tour. The New Point Loma lighthouse sits at the tip of the land about 90 feet above the water. The original lighthouse is on top of the 400-foot high cliffs. We are about three wuarters of a mile from the lighthouses. We saw people on the dirt road that leads down to a lookout point. Sunday we would be on that road too. Sadly, while I believe you can get to the New Point Loma lighthouse this hike doesn’t take you there.

-- February 28 at 10:04 AM.

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This was, I believe, the first lighthouse built overlooking San Diego Bay. It started operating in 1855 and remained active until March 1891. The lighthouse sits atop a 400-foot cliff. This turned out to be a less than ideal spot because low fog and clouds often obscured the light from the view of ships. The New Point Loma Lighthouse was built at the tip of the peninsula at a much lower elevation to replace this lighthouse.

--March 1, 2026 at 9:05 AM.

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We heard many birds and saw marine mammals but this little lizard might well be the first four-legged animal we have seen.

--March 1, 2026 at 12:16 PM.

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We are still some 90 feet above San Diego Bay. You can see the city in the background.

--March 1, 2026 at 9:50 AM.

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Whale Watching Tour Off San Diego Bay

We boarded the mighty Marietta for a whale watching tour outside of San Diego Bay. Spotting marine mammals is a challenge at the best of times; capturing a photo or video harder still. On this tour people spotted upwards of six whales: 5 Gray and 1 Humpback. I was fortunate to hear a couple blows, the whale exhale, and spot one. We were fortunate to have superb conditions. The swells outside the bay, especially at Nine Mile Bank where we hung out, were less than one foot high. The wind was negligible. As the heat scorched the land we felt pretty comfortable as the sun shone down upon us.

Besides the whales we saw countless marine birds, sea lions basking on channel markers, and scores of dolphins playing around the boats. I suppose I should say everyone else saw the vast array of life. I saw the birds near the boat but not much else. I still had fun.

Photos and Video

▶️ Play Whale Watching Tour

Dolphins seem to enjoy playing around the boat. They particularly like to jump on the wake.

Mom and Dad standing on the sun deck of the Mighty Marietta. We’ve seen sea lions, dolphins, and maybe by this point the blow and back of a Gray Whale. I think four or maybe five whales were spotted. I heard a couple blows and was lucky to see one blow. I don’t think I really ever saw the dolphins.

--February 28, 2026 at 11:06 AM.

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Almost back at our dock. It has gotten much busier in San Diego Bay. We certainly are noticing many more sailboats. Photo by Jonathan.

Cougar Pass, Hidden Meadows, and Burnt Mountain

Our first two hikes were not really what we would normally consider hikes. They were more ambles. The first hike had the treat of the 0.4-mile loop through Annie’s (slot) Canyon, and the other hike did have Penasquitos Creek. However, they didn’t really feel like hikes. Today would be different. We arrived at the Cougar Pass trailhead a bit after 8:00 AM. Once again the skies were clear with perhaps just a few cumulus clouds drifting overhead. The temperature was rising. I didn’t realize, perhaps none of us did, just how hot it would get. We donned our backpacks snd struck out along Cougar Pass Trail into the forests, meadows and mountains. A pleasant cool breeze brushed against us. Too bad that didn’t last.

We worked our way through the forest. The hard packed trail generally rose and in time we found our way to the Bobcat Trail. We had a false start here, though really we could have just tackled the loop in the other direction, before properly following the route we wanted. We had taken the advice of a local runner and were enjoying a route either greater shade. As we walked we listened to the life around us. We relaxed without the roar of traffic in our ears. The heat continued to increase its temperature.

At about the 2-mile mark, we found a wobbly bench with a not-particularly-animal-secure trash can nearby. It was a good spot for a break in this mountain meadow. We wondered about trash pickup. As we climbed up towards and around Butnt Mountain a ranger in a tough little 4x4 drove up. He deals with the trash and also checks on people. He has extra water for those in need. I think this heat wave, well above 80 and rising, is unusual but it’s great to see a local natural area like this is well maintained and cared for.

We left the ranger to his duty and continued on. We soon found the bypass that should save us some distance and effort. I am not at all sure it did either. However, it got us off the forest road with its ruts and on to a true trail. A trail that is marked with a sign warning about mountain lions. A bit of zest for the hike. We made more than enough noise to alert anything we were here. It was a gifing little bypass.

We popped back out on the far side of Burnt Mountain. All downhill from here. Downhill on the narrow rutted dirt road. Downhill to a nice viewpoint. The sun beat down upon us. A bit later we found a gloriously shady spot for another break. Stretching out, laying down, for a few minutes was wonderful. A relief from the descent which felt tougher than it should have been probably because the road is full of lumps and ruts. A relief from the heat which by this point just after noon was likely closer to 90 than 80.

We didn’t have far to go but it always seems like the last bit to the end of a hike is the longest and most tiring. However, we did arrive at the car in due time. That is where we learned that on direct sunshine it was 95°F. No wonder we felt a bit whipped. The people we saw climbing up into the mountains, walking their bikes in dome cases, must be more heat tolerant than us. We were happy to be done and happy we had done this hike.

The fly-over view of the hike.

Photos snd Video

▶️ Play Burnt Mountain and Meadows

Burnt Mountain. I am pretty sure our bypass climbed over a flank of the mountain. I think the longer option that stays on the dirt road likely climbed less.

--February 27, 2026 at 9:56 AM.

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Extra zest is added by this informative sign. It’s telling you what to go in case you have a close encounter with a mountain lion. I am fairly sure this bypass doesn’t save much time or effort.

--February 27, 2026 at 10:08 AM.

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Nifty rocks. Formations like this appeared throughout the day.

--February 27, 2026 at 10:32 AM.

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We took a nice break here. It was in direct sun but the heat hadn’t taken its toll yet.

--February 27, 2026 at 10:45 AM.

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