Day 4 - Up and Out
At 05:30 there is not even a hint of light in the sky except for a half-full moon that at this point as I type this I am not sure I actually saw.. Like everyone else I was concentrating on packing up my bit of camp. Even if you try and sort things out the night before it takes longer than you might think to pack up camp. But around 06:38 we had the place cleaned out, bathroom breaks seen to, and packs hoisted on our back. Headlamps were flicked on and we ventured out into the dark.
At some point as we approached the Silver Bridge a slight lightening to the sky could be seen. Still just a hint of the sunlight that would brighten the sky though not our path. As dawn approached we actually had views of the Colorado River: a deep emerald green with flecks of whitewater under a pale pale sky surrounding by rocks of shades of brown. If you treat it right it can be a special time and certainly helps make up for getting up before 05:30. The River Trail is easy hiking. It is sandy with some rocks thrown in to keep you honest. But even with low light we made good time. In time we reached the new-seeming privy building that marks the junction of the River and Bright Angel Trails at the mouth of Garden Creek. You take your special treats where you find them (and avoid using a WAG, Waste Alleviation and Gelling, Bag).
Bright Angel Trail gradually ascends crossing Garden Creek several (5 for us) times. Unlike South Kaibab Trail which is exposed and provides constant views of grand vistas of rock formations here you work your way up a canyon which seems to have flora bursting out everywhere. It isn’t quite that lush of course but you are bound to see and hear more than you do on the other Corridor Trails. It is a lovely change of pace and scenery reminding you that the Grand Canyon is far more than a deep gorge in the ground forged over timescales that are hard for most people to easily comprehend.
On a human timescale you come to an old mine shaft just before reaching the switchbacks of the Devil’s Corkscrew. Andy stuck his head in and thought it went back a few dozen feet and from my vantage point the entrance did not seem all that much taller than Andy himself. I am sure a bit of research would tell us what ore, if any, was hauled out here. In mines on (really above) the Tonto Platform uranium was gathered and they managed to pollute the groundwater to a degree it is unusable in much of the area between Indian Gardens and Monument Creek. At this hole into the cliffs there is no real sign of anything going on or much indication it ever had.
Up and up. The trail winds along the cliff walls at an increasing grade but still modest compared to South Kaibab Trail. Views begin to open up back across the canyon from whence you have come. Sunshine glints off distant canyon walls but will never find its way to where you are standing at this time of year. You get a workout.
When the Corkscrew ends you start to think Indian Gardens is moments away. After all, the trail levels out some, Garden Creek is streaming off to your right and it is more lush. But it is deceptive. Without checking a map I am pretty sure it is the better part of a mile to the actual Indian Gardens. But we got there in due time. I was invaded by water from Garden Creek. Unavoidable really. I am quite sure Lil has never felt so much relief as she did when she took her backpack off at the picnic table we occupied a few hundred feet above the privvy building and potable water spigot. To be sure it was a bit on the chilly side with a modest breeze and no sunshine falling upon us to warm us up but the hour or so most of us spent there was pleassant and gave us a chance to re-arrange gear so we could all make the remaining climb out of the Grand Canyon safely.
Up we go. The trail steepens as it goes. The switchbacks are excellent and the footing is quite good but you can’t help but get tired. You are ascending. I suppose the air is also thinning as the climb continues so perhaps that helps explain the steadily rising heart-rates we all experienced. Up. Up. Up. As we neared Three Mile Resthouse the temperature seemed to dip from a high around 47F to 43F. Small patches of snow began to appear. Off in the distance, seen by sharp-eyed types, a mountain goat moved about. A raven cried from high above. We hiked on taking breaks as the need to do so required it of us.
By the time we reached One and Half Mile Rest House I suspect Doug and Andy had nearly gained South Rim (turns out they hit that point not long after we probably left the rest house). The patchy snow had merged into a nice blanket. It wasn’t deep anywhere. Even on rocks where it could easily pile up it was just an inch or two I think. On the trail it certainly was just an inch or so deep. Crunchy snow. Traction aiding devices were put on and they certainly provided a bit more security. I don’t think the trail was actually that icy in most places but had it drizzled a bit and the temperature dropped the trail would have been wretched to walk upon. As it was the snow added a sense of stark beauty to the canyon as we worked our way through the twists and turns of Bright Angel Trail past imposing rock walls of varying textures and colors.
As we neared the rim a few more trees and plants became visible. They have more places they can grab a root-hold in. Evergreen of some type. I couldn’t see the needles to say what they are. Just pretty. That is enough (or has to be). RIght around 16:00 with a breeze blowing and the temperature hovering around 40F LIl and I passed the Bright Angel Trailhead. The Rim Trail beckoned and we marched down the windy path with views of the Grand Canyon yawning out to our left. I think we would have enjoyed them more had we had a bit more energy to spare but we were tired and ready to be done. WHen you tack on the Rim Trail the hike from the Colorado River is about 10.5 miles long with that last stretch between One and a Half Mile Resthourse being the steepest bit and most tiring.
Joni popped out not long after Lil and I did and Doug and Andy had been out for well over an hour by this time. Eventually we all found each other at Bright Angel Lodge and settled in for a post-hike dinner. I wish I could tell you it was the best meal we had all eaten. While I think Doug enjoyed his trout and Lil and Joni liked what they had (forget now) Andy and I were very much let down by our burgers. Why bother to ask how you want them cooked when the kitchen is going to blast the meat until it is well past well-done status. Oh well. Next time I will try the pasta or maybe go someplace else like the Maswick Lodge which is reported to have good pizza.
Thus ends the official Grand Canyon trip. It wasn’t what we had planned but we adapted and improvised to make the trip work out. I think even with that caveat people had a good time. Maybe they learned things about themselves they did not know. I am sure many good memories were created over the past 3 nights and 4 days in the Grand Canyon. we have a whole day left to play with and since Sedona, in all its quirky glory, is on the way to the airport we will spend the bulk of the day giving ourselves a whirlwind tour of the home of the red rocks.
Photos
Sunrise is still 20 or so minutes away. Hints of blue are appearing n the sky and the Colorado River is becoming deep emerald green.
--January 19, 2020 at 7:13 AM. Colorado River Trail, Williams, AZ, United States
8 minutes further west and that much closer to the mouth of Pipe Creek and the start of Bright Angel Trail. Their is that much more light colors ng the day. It’s lovely.
--January 19, 2020 at 7:21 AM. Colorado River Trail, Williams, AZ, United States
Looking to the west just a little before sunrise.
--January 19, 2020 at 7:25 AM. Colorado River Trail, Williams, AZ, United States
Standing by the mouth of what I believe is Pipe Creek watching this tiny waterfall pour towards the Colorado River. It feels like the creek should be wider. After all, I believe it has water from Grden Creek in it too and the water source is a perenial one and was vital to native American, Havasupai, life for centuries.
--January 19, 2020 at 7:51 AM. Bright Angel Trail, Williams, AZ, United States
Andy stuck his head in this mine shaft. It goes back a ways before either stopping or vanishing into darkness.
--January 19, 2020 at 8:34 AM. Bright Angel Trail, Williams, AZ, United States
Find the group. Doug is in the lead, followed by Joni, Lil, and finally Ken. Photo by Andy.
--January 19, 2020 at 8:59 AM. Bright Angel Trail, Williams, AZ, United States
Grand Canyon is more than just the the portion the Colorado River flows through (Granite Gorge in this area I believe). It really is best to think of the Grand Canyon as a complex of formations - a mountain range in reverse (Kaibab means “reverse mountain” in Paiute dlanguage I believe).
--January 19, 2020 at 8:59 AM. Bright Angel Trail, Williams, AZ, United States
What a treat. Lil (not shown), Joni, and I got to watch this mountain goat for a time. Once I knew where to look I was able to enjoy the animals presence too. Later others, I don’t think it was the same one, would be spotted by people.
--January 19, 2020 at 12:50 PM. Bright Angel Trail, Williams, AZ, United States
In the area of Three Mole Rest House. It is cooling down and patches of snow are appearing.
--January 19, 2020 at 12:53 PM. Bright Angel Trail, Williams, AZ, United States
Nearing South Rim. The snow has blanketed the trail since One and a Half Mile Rest House. It is a clear, crisp, afternoon. We are working hard as we climb through this area that actually has ponderosa pines and other large flora in it.
--January 19, 2020 at 3:30 PM. Bright Angel Trail, Williams, AZ, United States
At the upper terminus of Bright zangrl Trail. Photo by Lil.
--January 19, 2020 at 3:48 PM. Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon, AZ, United States
Stats
I don’t have exact numbers but from our campsite located near the northern end of the campground it is about 10.5 miles to the vicinity of the main lodge on South Rim.
- The River Trail accounts for about 1.25 miles of the distance. It’s a level trail with a sandy path of easy travel.
- Bright Angel trail gradually ascends towards Devils Corkscrew which is about 1 mile from the River Rest House (my name). In the area around Indian Gardens the grade eases again for a time. Grade steepens as you pass Three Mile Rest House. While the steepest bit of trail is near South Rim footing on the whole trail is superb with far fewer big steps than you find on South Kaibab Trail. Bright Angel Trail is far shadier too which contributes to it feeling easier even though it can be quite steep gaining 2,000 feet over 3 miles from Three Mile Rest House. Total length is right about 8 miles.
- The last mile is on the Tim trail. It does climb very gently on hard dirt and eventually pavement.
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