High spotty clouds dot the sky and we are hoping for somewhat cooler temperatures than we have seen. From the overview of the walk we think it should be an easy one as well as one with some interesting things to see. Our driver dropped us off at 09:44 at an intersection near the hamlet of Vilartoli. He would continue on to Garriguella to drop off our luggage.
We hoisted our packs as a friendly dog came to check us out and soon we were walking up a farm road passing grape vines as we looked for the small blue rock piles that would mark the path to the dolmen in the area. Finding them we followed the dirt paths between vineyards up a small hill to a set of dolmen. One, in particular, was in perfect condition. These millenia-old stone structures are the entry ways into what I think could be fairly elaborate tombs for more than just one person or family. we also passed by an intriguing , much more modern, round stone shelter with a tiny door that I find hard to imagine a use for. I suppose fieldhands use it for something but it really was a tiny seeming door that you’d almost have to wiggle through to get into what looks like a large (and very dark) shelter.
By this time into the walk, call it a kilometer, we had picked up our unwanted companions for the day. Flies were out in force and, if possible, more irksome than the day before. Clearly we were unable to outpace them even as we continued to walk farm roads and some minor paved roads through more vineyards, sheep pastures, olive groves, and so on towards the village of Espolla. The cafe/bar we passed in that quiet small village was a bit tempting but it was stuffy inside and still pretty early in the day so we just kept on going. We were making fine progress as the hiking was on dirt or concrete minor roads. No vehicle traffic. In short order we were approaching the village of Rabós and this , once again very quiet, village had more to offer.
Rabós sits on a hillside. Like other places we have walked through it feels old. Many solid stone buildings, a modest village square (actually had a few people in it) and a Romanesque church. The church bell tolled the time as we took a break on a park bench. We found an open tiny grocery store and got some cookies. The selection was small. I don’t think I saw any fresh fruits or produce their. Mom and Dad noticed some lovely buildings and you wonder what they’re used for today.
When we left the village for the farm track through a vineyard we looked back and up to see Rabós and its fortified church standing proudly on the hill above. I can easily imagine this as a prosperous place , as those things went, several centuries ago. Today I wonder.
The farm lanes would eventually turn into a trail that we would follow for a couple km. While the trail is waymarked it doesn’t get much tender loving care. It is overgrown but at least the plants aren’t full of sharp pointy bits. We walked through valleys and across two dry streams with our ever-present swarms of non-biting flies. By now the clouds had cleared away and the temperature was pushing the 80F mark. A shady area just off the trail provided our lunch spot. A quick lunch so we didn’t have to deal with the annoying flies.
When we climbed out of the valley, not much of a climb, we got some wind and that pushed the flies back. Hurray. We also got more expansive views. You might argue they weren’t great views, no majestic mountain ranges or views of the sea, but expansive nonetheless. After a quick break for a snack in Delfia our walk would take us on more farm roads passed very large fields with the village of Garriguella visible in the distance.
We worked our way around those fields to a paved road that for the last several hundred meters would lead us into the center of Garriguella. It is bigger than the other villages but my first impressions are that there isn’t all that much here. Somehow it feels less interesting that Santa Pau let alone Besalu. I hope this is a false impression. Maybe tomorrow we will se it in a better more complete light.
(The walk to the resturaunt for dinner didn’t really improve my view of the village but then dinner itself, though inexpensive, was only mediocre).
Distance: 15.3km
Ascent: 169m
Descent: 235m
Moving TIme:4 hours 33 minutes
Stopped Time: 40 minutes
(Ascent number are about 100m lower than the guide notes. The walk was 700m shorter than the guide said).
Photos
1. An intact dolmen. Photo by Judy
2. The main feature of Rabos is the fortified church you see on the right.
3. Large fields surround Garriguella. Our last couple km took us atop bd and through them.
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