Community

(Montrose, Scotland) One thing that stands out about the Challenge is the community that exists around the event. It persists beyond the two week window of the event itself but truly blossoms during the Challenge proper. You see it in the willingness of Challengers to lend a hand be it a small thing or large favor. I certainly saw this in action when I was able to join up with others on their hike. But it us definitely not restricted to just me. I saw, and was happy to see, the spirit of a hiking community at work as I passed through Braemar. I am glad to see people offer help to anyone who needs it. The sense of followship that comes along with the Challenge is, for many, an important part of what makes the whole thing special, far more than a simple coast-to-coast trek across Scotland.

Photos
My ticket from my endpoint of Stonehaven to Montrose.

Me in my new Paramo Qito jacket. I'd better love this coat for what it cost me.

Are campsite at Waulkmill. herein has a three-person tarptent, Nicolas a Hilleberg Akto, and me with my Mountain Laural Designs Trailstar.

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** Ken **

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Through Glen Feshie

Braemar
How can this tourist hub of a village that gunnels Challengers through itself over this weekend feel so empty? I know they're around but I've not really seen any comrades since mid-afternoon. Sure bunches just paused long enough for a bite, a pint, and a resupply before going to places like Lich Calliter or Gelder Shiel (sp) to name two but I know many are here somewhere. It is a bit lonely.

The last couple days have yielded great, even a bit hot, weather. Fantastic clear skies for crossing Glen Feshie. High hot dun to burn your forearms and dry your feet after stream crossings. No rain but for a small shower this morning that didn't amount too much.

Photos
Me crossing a stile on a path outside of Braemar. The paths through Birkwood are worth checking out.

Snow on the peaks of the Cairngorm plateau.

A view of a side street here in Braemar.

Me and a rare sight in Scotland: signage directing foot/bike traffic along anceint paths.

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** Ken **

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Laggan

Laggan
All that time in Fort Augustus and I really still haven't seen much of the town or Loch Ness up close. I should gave done more but instead I eventually found my room and napped.

The walk out from Stravaigers seemed longer than it need be but I reckon that was an illussion brought on in part by not quite knowing if I was going the right way. With fits and starts I found the old military road and began the assault of Corrieyairack Pass.

Weather was great. Not too hot and becoming clearer. The oath, an ancient road built by the redcoats, is easy to follow but gravelly and hard on the body. Down below you hear farm sounds, up above you see hills and speckles of snow near their tops. Up and up you go. I think took a bit more than four hours to reach the top. I'm sure many do it much quicker.

The winds whipped around me and others as we sheltered in the lee of a workers hut at the top. It must be there for servicing the powerlibe pylons. You leave the top and hut ruined zig zagging path. It is simply awful boulder strewn nastiness. Walking the tussock grass on the side is the only real way to go and a path has been worn in by people on the ridgeline.

As I descended people caught up to me. Some had left a couple hours after me. Some had done tough ctoss country treks to get where they were. Always makes me feel a bit snail-like. Chatted with a few and in due course, about 17:00, I reached Melgarve bothy.

We had a thriving group here though I'm sure it paled in size to the group at Garva Bridge. A very nice night. The hike to Laggan would be an easy one the next day.

The monadhliath Hotel pulls people in like a tiny trail town. It is easy to take a meal and just stay. Many do exactly that. I pitched my tarp in the church ruins and spent the afternoon and evening talking with other Challengers. Loads of fun and a reminder why events like this are worth doing.

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** Ken **

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Challenger Goes Boom

The Knoydart (sp) beat me up. Lock Arkaig road with it's hills chewed on the remains. I'm in the Stravaigers Hostel/campsite: £20 for a room and access to kitchen and shower (bring your own soap and rowell). How I got here is the "blowing up" of my route.

The terrain the first 2 days is wicked hard. Hard to find paths, really suggestionsvof paths, and lousy footing. Watch out for bogs that suck on feet and trekking poles. Had I nit been able to link up with others I really wonder if i'd have made it. Route finding in these conditions is just damned hard.

Brcausecof this although I know a walking route exists from Spean Bridhe to Garva Bridge I was just a bit scared to go it alone. Here comes the big boom, I caught a bus to Fort Augustus. I don't care about the boom. I'm here to have fun and meet people. I don't need excess danger especially when I'm feeling I'll as I currently am. Sure the first 30lm to Arkaig road are wicked but I shouldn't have felt so wiped out.

Photos:

Me at Sourlies bothy. Took more than 9 hours to get there. Biggest pain was the descent to the ruins at Cornack (sp) and wandering that headlands looking for the bothy. Thanks to weekend peak bagged Stephen for a timely last assist.

here comes weather. . Past the second lochan on the way to Glen Dessarry (sp) with Rod and Mark who let me hike with them (slowing them way down I'm sure).

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** Ken **

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Mallaig

Mallaig
I caught the train without too much fuss though I entered the wrong car (how fo you tell which car to get on?). Although I'd met another Challenger we got separated and I saw no one else on the Chalkenge in my quiet coach. It us surprising how many people got off at this very western coastal village. Why are they all here? Most clearly aren't backpacking. Day trippers perhaps but that seems odd.

My hotel, West Highland Hotel, looks to be among the ritziest with a price to match. I know others are staying elsewhere. I've no idea where anyone is now. I'm alone and I feel the pressure of it. The hotel sits on a hill from which I can gaze out on the steel grey ocean and lighter grey sky. It is drizzling out. I suspect the temperature is in the upper 40s though the wet brisk wind makes it feel colder. Far cry from two years ago. I hope it doesn't degrade much from this.

I expect this to be my last dhort post. I'm really just killing time now. Trying to keep the jitters at bay. I'm nervous about route finding. I do wish I was part of a solid group. Sure I'll be hiking with others going my way but I'm still really just one passing in and out of contact with others. The fact that other zchalkengers are near yet so far should be proof enough of that.

** Ken **

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Glasgow

I got here 36 hours ago. Sadly, unlike the great travellers who write the 36 Hours In.... articles in the New York Times I've done nothing to further my knowledge of this place. I failed to really properly plan ahead. Sure yesterday I was tired from the flights and so needed a nap, but that rxcusevonly goes so far. Sure I went far affield to a Tiso Outdoor store nearly a mile from my hotel, knowing it was the wrong one, and found it closed forcing me to find to right one the next morning on Buchannon (Buchannan?) Street and wait until 10:00 for it to open. But still, I probably should have done more.

I found I was tired this afternoon too and I hope that doesn't mean I'm coming down with some Inited Kingdom bug. I'll do my beat to get a solid night of sleep and hope for the best. Tomorrow I just need to walk the quarter mile to Queen Street Station to catch my train to Mallaig (I picked up my ticket earlier today, a very easy thing to do).

The highlight of the day was linking up with Phil T (@philcturner). Though I've already forgotten the namevpf the chain bar located in a former bank (great open space with vaulted roof and skylight) that is fine. The chance to meet another Challenger is whY matters. In fact, meeting other TGzo Challenge walkers is, I feel, an important reason to be here. After all if your goal is just to tramp the Highlands you can do that any time. The Challenge offers you the chance to do that and share the experience with others who know what you're going through. That adds to the pleassure.

Weight Update
backpack with food , fuel, and 1 liter of water: 25.2 pounds
Maps and such shoulder bag: 2.6 pounds
Camera Bag: 1.66 pounds

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** Ken **

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The Gear

My airline dinner of pasta and cheese with a bit of salad and other stuff is churning in my belly and since I seem unable to sleep I might as well dive into a favorite topic of backpackers. Bear with me as their will be less precision then some of you might wish for, but still enough for you to learn from.

Shelter, backpack, and sleep system - 2.3kg
The big three components for most everyone are the backpack, shelter system, and sleeping gear. I am no exception. In 2008 I used my Bozeman Mountain Works Arctic Dry Pack, Nuntak Arc Alpinist quilt, Pacific Outdoor Equipment sleeping pad, and Henry SHires Virga Tarptent. That setup definitely tipped the scales a bit farther than this slate of gear for 2010 will. The backpack probably was a good kilogram heavier and the sleeping quilt is probably a quarter again as heavy as what I am taking this time. I am taking a small chance with my gear this time as the Gossamer Gear Mariposa may not be as comfortable as the Arctic was (I've used the Mariposa on week-long trips before and it has been OK). The quilt I am taking this time is my GoLite Ultra 20 which will definitely be more than warm enough even if the temperature drops below freezing. This time I am going with a tarp-based approach instead of the tarp tent. The total weight is probably a wash compared to the Virga but the tarp-based system, using Mountain Laurel Design's Trailstar as the shelter, is so much more roomy. I will use my old, not used in years, Adventure 16 Bug Bivy to keep the pests away during the night. This ivy pops open like a magician's top hat when unpacked and weighs about 6 ounces. It is a half-ivy but that should be enough protection. No doubt lighter options exist but I just could not bring myself to buy something new.

Kitchen - 0.5kg
Nothing special here. I will be taking an MSR 0.85 liter Titan Kettle, an Evernew 0.4 liter titanium mug, a titanium spark, Brunton Crux canister stove, and plenty of food. Every time I do a big trip I ponder trying a wood stove but then reality asserts itself and I think about finding the fuel. I recall a couple places back in 2008 where I am not at all sure I could have found the small bits of wood I would need to cook. Canbam bothy, my first night out, and the bothy at Melgarve come to mind. Perhaps someday I will give wood a proper try but I think I need to do it when with someone who has had more experience than I with a wood stove.

Clothing - (carried 1.5kg)
Given that the temperaturestio predicted for this year's Challenge are to be in the low 50s for the daytime highs and low 30s for the nighttime lows I am bringing some extra insulting clothing that I might otherwisem not bother with. During an average hiking day I find that I stay fairly warm so lightweight clothing is all I require. I'll be wearing basic hiking pants from REI (non-convertible, sad to say), a bottom-down shirt of some sort (an REI something or my Bozeman Mountain WOrks Theroware shirt). I've supplemented this base layer setup with a capilene t-shirt, Patagonia Dragonflycollec wind shirt, Bozeman Mountain Works Cocoon pullover for insulation, extra wool socks for both hiking and a dedicated pair for sleeping, and both a sun hat and fleece been. For night time use, or if the daytime temps suddenly truly plummet, I have also packed a pair of long johns. I had to mix and match as my nice My Smartwool top is not so nice anymore. I have a Duofold top and Smartwool bottoms. They'll be what I wear to bed. Finally we have the all-important rain gear. I am sure this will elicit howls from some people but I am going with a poncho and chaps approach. I'm not going to be bushwhacking through forests so their is nothing for a poncho to snag on. A poncho provides superior ventilation which I consider very important. When combined with rain chaps a limitations, like any piece of gear, most notable amongst them being that your arms can get wet while you hike with your trekking poles.

Electronics and Other Stuff - 3.8kg
My single biggest collection of gear and boy is it weighty. I've struggled long and hard to find a good long-form writing tool that would replace my trusted Apple MessagePad 2100 (the last Newton) and its external keyboard. I've written about this before so I will not rehash it now. In some ways the Apple iPad with wireless keyboard (I do want to try it with a USB foldable keyboard which would be a few ounces lighter) is clearly overkill. But it could be the new choice approach as long as I am careful about keeping the battery charged as I doubt my tiny solar charger, even under ideal conditions, could charge the iPad. The iPad and external keyboard weigh in at 1,030 grams. Yes, you could shed a third of that weight by leaving the keyboard at home but while I am confident that a normally sighted person could type fast enough on the onscreen keyboard to comfortably do a few hundred words per night I am just as sure that I could not do it anywhere near as efficiently. Perhaps, under more control circumstances I will have to run attest to see how much battery charge is drained by typing a journal entry on the onscreen keyboard versus using the external keyboard but that will have to wait for another time. The remaining gadgetry includes such things as my Canon Powershot 710IS, a Garmin Colorado GPS, extra batteries, my iPhone with a Blue Mikey microphone, and the various plugs so I can recharge devices when the opportunity presents itself. Those gadgets probably add a kilogram. I am also now carrying a McMurdo Personal Locator Beacon which hopefully I will never have to use.

That still leaves well over a kilogram to account for. The vast bulk of that extra mass is eaten up by the Ordnance Survey maps, my own notes, and the Watchful Eye waterproof carry case that holds it all. Toss in the Monocular Of Size (nearly 300 grams) and you come up with the remaining weight. It is too bad I have to carry so much paper with me, but going without the maps would be silly. Just because people probably did it ages ago doesn't mean I should.

The Rest Of It
The rest of the stuff includes all those miscellaneous items that I've not talked about yet. First aid and hygiene fall into this group. Nothing remarkable here. I will purchase small fuel canisters along the way. I think a small canister should be enough to get me to Braemar where I can definitely get another one. I am going to bring Aqua Mra for water treatment though I know a lot of Challengers do not bother. I also will have a few extra ditty bags and extra empty bags that will probably be used to hold trail trash. But the weight of that stuff is negligible.

Food - varies (initially about 8 pounds for several days)
I've packed several days worth of dinners, a whole bunch of Pro Bar energy bars, some cheese and sausage for lunches, and other foodstuffs. I still have to buy some things like pita/tortilla wraps and maybe some additional food for breakfast. All in all though I don't expect my food bag will ever weigh more than 7 pounds or so. Remember that my longest stretch between towns is just 3 days and even then I think I may pass by places I can grab a bite. I may have too much of some types of food and not enough of other types. Of course, nothing says you cannot have a dinner type meal for breakfast or vice versa.

summing Up
I have a hanging scale that I don't fully trust. It suggests that the bulk of my gear not counting food, food, and water weighs about 16.5 pounds. Moist of that is in the backpack,, perhaps 12.5 to 13 pounds. The rest is split between 2 pounds of maps and such in their case and 1.75 pounds of camera, GPS, and other items in their camera bag. Their are sone things vie not weighed so I can imagine the total rising to closer to 18 pounds. When you work it out a total weight of around 28 pounds with food, fuel,a and a liter of wTer is probably about right. Heavy. ** Ken **

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Run From the Botder: Jonesville to Albion on the North Country Trail

The rain that had been threatening to drench us for the past few hours has finally arrived. I'm nestled under the protecting skin of my tent after failing to get my hammock set up correctly. I came close to but in the end I mucked things up rather badly and went to my fallback position. Andy, after a couple of false starts, got his hammock set up. He hasn't come screaming over here to squeeze into this so-called two-man tent so he must be doing well. John has his tiny tent set up not far away and if I listen hard I think I can hear the gentle rumble of a snore emenating from that direction not quite drowned out by the downpour. Our 18 mile day is done and even though it was mostly a long road walk we had a good day.



This time the Run From the Border group consisted of just Andy, John, and myself. The other participants from the last trek had other commitments. That is just the way things are. We dropped one car off at Homer and drove back to Jonesville where we had left off the hiking two weeks ago. The sky was overcast but it was not raining yet. We fully expected it to rain and we all had multiple raingaear options available to us. I think we all hoped that if it came down to it that we would be able to get away with using our umbrellas. Andy had the grandest umbrella sporting a cane-length straight handle and a garishly colored umbrella. I sported a slightly smaller black umbrellas with a short handle and John was carrying one of those small purse-sized umbrellas that though small was certainly large enough for one. But initially we were able to just saunter forth along the small town roads leading out of Jonesville into the rolling farmlands. We walked down the dirt road looking at the various homes and fields now and then passing through small stands of trees. We picked up a couple outdoor dogs along the way. Friendly enough, though the little black and white one could stand to have its nails clipped, that just wanted to come with us. The smaller one, in particular, just did not want to leave. Perhaps the dog just had a huge range but I doubt it. Eventually John managed to convince it with some "angry" motions that it should go home. After all, we still had probably 14 miles to go just to reach our parked car in Homer to say nothing of the fact that we would then drive to the Lost Nations SGA and hike about two thirds of a mile in to a campsite.



I think the nicest part of the hike has to be the stretch that leads into Litchfield. You start by tromping along a new trail, pretty poor tread way full of lumps, along a berm by a river (St. Jospeh I think) that pops you out on a nature trail that leads you to the outskirts of the small town of Litchfield. Litchfield would make a nice trail town as it has a grocery, a couple places (though not always open) to eat, and even a public library that I am sure a weary hiker could visit to get online and send a letter home. All we cared about though was finding a place to eat and we found what may have been the only open eatery: Kasys.We had a filling lunch: oddly enough ending up all getting pretty much the same thing.

One thing you notice as you walk through small towns and rural areas like this is that you sometimes attract attention. People will ask you what you are about and sometimes you pick up a bive that says, "what are these intruders doing here." On person, near the river berm walk, referred to the North Country Trail as "that trail" and definitely some folks in Litchfield were checking us out. But perhaps nothing more is meant by any of this then expressions over curiosity perhaps tinged with a dollop of suspicion that accompanies any encounter with people who are are clearly not of the area. We left Litchfield, passing the same house with the large dog that could easily have cleared his fence had he wished, and began the hike towards Homer once again. Soon the rain that we had been expecting arrived. We whipped out our umbrellas and hoped that the steady rain would not turn into a thunderstorm. The rain was accompanied by moderate wind but our umbrellas were up to the task and we stayed pretty dry and comfortable.The miles dragged on and the most interesting thing that happened along the way was an encounter with a farmer who came by in a horse drawn carriage. Definitely a very old-world type of fellow.

About 8 hours after starting, a little before 18:00, we strolled along the rough sidewalks leading into downtown Homer to find a place for dinner. Our options were rather limited and we settled on a pizza joint called something like Casarelles. This was a big place, clearly the happening spot at this point in time in Homer. They had a big section reserved for a large party and tables seemed full of happy families. We settled in at a high table below one of the many black lights to devour a large pizza and a bunch of soda (couldn't bring myself to have a beer). A very good meal after the 17 plus miles of hiking.

We had thought we might stay at a B&B or inn but nothing seemed worthwhile when we did the research so we piled into the cars and drove back to the parking lot that is about one kilometer from the campsite we had used two weekends before. This would give me a chance to look for my lost Powermonkey charger. We walked along now now rather wet, but just re-blazed , trail to the campsite. There are stretches of this trail that really do not follow the best possible route. They're just there and end up being sloppy. A little after 20:00 we strolled into the campsite and Andy spied the charger. We'll have to wait until I return home and make sure the unit is totally dry to see if it has survived its sojourn in the woods alone and exposed. Tomorrow we will shuttle the cars to Homer and Albion and hike the reaming 10 or so miles that make up this 28 mile stretch. It's time for sleep though perhaps the rain will lull me off to bed.

===

The downpour lasted for several hours with a couple respites that were long enough for all of us , at various times, to zip out of our respective shelters to answer nature's call or do tweaks to our shelters. It never got that windy and the temperature throughout the night remained fairly warm. It got a bit colder, as temperature seems wont to do, just before dawn but it would rebound. I learned as the night wore on that I seem to have a leak somewhere. I felt drops strike me on the face a couple of times and the floor and wall by the tent window were much wetter than they should have been from mere condensation. I've no idea where the leak is. Perhaps, after I dry the tent out (it has gained a lot of weight from absorbed water) I'll be able to find questionable spots and seam-seal them. I've a suspicion that Andy remained the driest of us all. He had a great sleep in his hammock. We were lucky enough, as we broke camp around 08:00 that it was not raining. Mist hung over Lake Number Eight and it was obvious that it was going to rain later on but as we got our stuff together for the walk back to the parking lot we were able to do so in dry-ish air. We still slipped our ponchos on before hitting the trail.



After having breakfast and dropping a car off in Albion and returning to Homer the bulk of the morning had elapsed. We started hiking at about 11:15. It was clear that today we would have thunderstorms. The umbrellas stayed in the cars; why risk becoming a lightening rod. We donned oru ponchos and began the hike out of Homer crossing the Kalamazoo River and walking along a mercifully quiet paved road. The thunder was audible to the east, west, and south. The sky steadily darkened and then the storm broke with heavy large drops. Andy lauded his gaiters and Gortex socks. John and I suffered wet socks and damp lower legs. Andy just suffered squishy shoes but his feet remained ry. We left the paved road for quieter roads passing another 100-year old farm and eventually a house that sported, among other things, a caboose in its yard. The person who lives there must be a railroad aficionado. We walked and it rained.



Eventually the band of storms passed over and the sky lightened even permitting a bit of sunshine to burst forth as we came within a couple of miles of Albion. We strolled the gently rolling hills along a two-lane road past fields in transition. Now and then we spied a few cows or heard dogs raising the alarm that strangers were passing by. We worked our way into Albion arriiving a little after 15:00. The town was quiet. In fact it was so quiet that we could not find anywhere to have a meal. Everything was closed. Perhaps it is the economy or perhaps it is because they just roll up the sidewalks on Sunday. We had to go back to Homer to retrieve the other car anyway so we ended up arriving there just before the pizza joint from last night opened for the day. They sell other stuff besides pizza and the subs and panini we enjoyed were just what we needed after finishing our long road walk of the day (no nature trails even this day).


Wildlife sightings of note happened at the start and end of the hike. On a boardwalk not far out from the start of our hike we found a still leopard frog. It made no attempt to hop away from us. Perhaps it was just too cold. It certainly seemed to honker down a bit into John's palm when he picked it up. I bet it loved the extra warmth coming off Johns skin. At Victory Park in ALbion John spotted a snapping turtle off in the grass.

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Spring Cleaning: Trail Maintenance on the North Country Trail

Hiking trails require attention. If they do not receive attention they become overgrown, hard to follow, perhaps even dangerous. With attention a hiking trail, even one that does not see much foot traffic, can remain a high quality pathway ffor years.Three times a year I join friends and we go to a stretch of the North COuntry Trail to give it some special attention. We are just a few of the hundreds of volunteers who help maintain the NCT. The NCT, like the vast majority of long-distance trails, is maintained by dedicated volunteers. Some take care of just a mile or so and others take care of considerably longer stretches. Some trail segment could be in remote locations. Our section though is not among these as it is bounded by two minor roads in Newago County. We just have to drive across the stae to reach the trail. Our section rolls through modestly hilly forest passing by several lakes as it worms its way between 16 and 13 Mile Roads. We also maintain, and helped build, the spur trail that leads to Highbanks Lake campground. All in all we are responsible for about 6.5 miles of trail.

As a trail maintainer your job is to make sure the trail is in good shape. You want to keep the tread way clean, remove blown down trees, remove dead overhanging limbs that could fall on a passing hiker, remove dead trees that are next to the trail and are showing imminent signs that they will fall, and do any blaze work that needs doing. You do all of this with hand tools. If a tree comes down that is too big to handle with a bow saw you have to leave it for the certified sawyers to deal with. We hate doing that and have spent considerable time and energy (1,000 stroke logs) to avoid having to call for the chain saw gang. You walk along your trail enjoying the pleasures of being outside but you keep an eye out for all the things I just mentioned. If you are fortunate you won't have much work to do. If you stay on top of sections that become quickly overgrown then you will not have to spend countless hours whipping them into shape. We used to have a stretch of trail that was incredibly overgrown with thorn bushes and the like. After hours of work on several different visits we have tamed the section and now it only requires a few minutes of pruning. But there will probably be another such section growing up someplace and unless we nip it in the bud we'll have our hands full once again.

We take a weekend to tackle our section. After all,, you have to hike in and back out with your tools. While many sections are short enough that this can likely be easily done in a day we like to take our time and do two-thirds (about 9 miles) one day and the remain third (4 miles) the following day. You might think that you could hike the trail in just one direction and catch everything you need to catch but this is not always true. You do see the trail differently as you travel in different directions. Besides who wants to deal with setting up car shuttles?

You come to know your section of trail pretty well as you take care of it but that does not mean it becomes dull. Grand events, like a modest-sized forest brush fire liven things up but smaller scale events happen too and there is always something new to see. Last summer we came across some wonderful snakes, this spring the remains of a just-happened fire.

You also do trail work because you are becoming part of something greater than yourself. You are helping take care of something that should last generations and be enjoying by hundreds and hundreds of people. That is a good feel. ANd it is a feeling you can share with your fellow trail maintainers. You might even get lucky and encounters people using your trail segment while you are working on it and be thanked by them. For these reasons and more I think it is a very worthwhile volunteer activity. Especially if , like me, you enjoy hiking the trails anyway. Why not give something back?

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