Mangrove Tunnels of Lido Key

This is our final day in Sarasota and it is a lovely day of sunshine and warmth. The previous 3 days have been quite cool, chilly by Florida standards, and overcast. Today is bright, clear, and steadily warming towards a high around 71°F. Our only concern is that it is a bit windy and that could make kayaking the mangrove tunnels of Lido Key less fun. However, we decided to to drive over there and hope that by late-morning conditions would improve and be more than suitable for our self-guided paddle in the shallow waters that make up these bays dotted with islets and the tunnels of mangroves.

When we arrived at the kayak rental point it was still a bit blustery and not quite as warm as we wanted so Mom and I took a short walk while Dad waited at the car. Most of the trails in the Ted Sperling Nature Park are currently closed this short trail that follows a dandy path and crosses several bridges took us out to an overlook near tunnel number 2. A pleasant walk that used up enough time that by the time we returned it was clear that this was going to be a fine day for our paddle. We set off with Mom and Dad in two-person sit-on-top kayak and I had a single of the same style boat.

On busier, probably warmer, days there are several kayak companies that rent boats for self-guided paddles or guided tours. When we we getting our boat just one company was there. We wondered how they decide when to rent boats. We never did find out. However, we did learn that hurricane Milton did indeed thoroughly swamp the key with wanter and deposited sand all over the place where sand shouldn’t be. Considering the amount of damange done I think it is remarkable they’ve cleaned so much up in the 3 months since the storm. Perhaps that is why many trails are curretnly closed. However, for our purposes of paddling you would not know a major storm had wrought so much destruction.

I’ll let the photos tell the story of our paddle. This is an easy paddle of about 3 miles if you just choose to pass through most of the tunnels, pause for lunch on the beach, and return. You could extend the paddle by venturing out into Sarasota Bay as the guided tours do but it’s not what we wanted to do. I’ll just add that you should wear shoes, if you do, that you are willing to soak. You’ll get your feet wet entering and exiting your kayak at places you want to do so. And you could always find yourself unexpectedly stuck on a sandbar or shoal as the waters are frequently quite shallow. This happened to me after we made a wrong turn in tunnel 4 that took us to a bridge and then out into the bay where I hit a too-shallow spot as we paddled back to tunnel 3. I had to get out and walk my boat off the shoal, just a few yards, before getting back in. At least the water at that spot was quite a bit warmer, probably because it was so shallow and in full sunlight, than the water at the put-in point.

Photos

There are five mangrove tunnels. I think this was the first.

—January 10, 2025 at 10:57 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Exiting a mangrove tunnel. For some reason the tunnels are marked with much more visible buoys than at the boat launch site.

—January 10, 2025 at 11:01 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Ken. The water here is quite shallow. In fact, there are places where it is possible to run aground. That would happen later on to Ken after exiting tunnel 4 route to the beach lunch spot. Photo by Jonathan.

—January 10, 2025 at 11:06 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Mom and Dad lead the way into one of the mangrove tunnels. There is a current in them so if you’re going with the flow you really need only steer. This time we had to actively paddle. The tunnels can be quite narrow and it’s unlikely you can get through without bumping foliage with your paddle or boat: at least I find it so.

—January 10, 2025 at 11:24 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

It’s time to get back in the kayaks and paddle back to the boat launch point. The water feels warmer here.

--January 10, 2025 at 2:59 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Deep Hole - Myakka River State Park

Our week here in Sarasota is coming to a close. A couple of the days have been decidedly cool, even chilly by Florida standards, and cloudy. Those days were certainly less than welcomed by us. We have taken a few walks along the beach and done some other little exploration. However, today was our first foray into new territory: The Deep Hole of Myakka River State Park.

This is just above a 5-mile roundtrip hike thorough prairie in a 7,500 acre nature preserve that includes Lower Myakka Lake. It’s certainly a different kind of area than anything I have seen before in Florida. It isn’t beach, urban sidewalks or parks, certainly not wetlands. The greatest amount of sound was probably, sadly, the rumble of traffic which grew fainter as we traveled farther from the trailhead. Now and then I heard birds but they were few and far between. Perhaps that’s because trees were few and far between too. At the shore of Lower Myakka Lake I certainly heard more. If the alligators made any sound it went unnoticed.

There were certainly quite a few alligators soaking up warmth from the sun as it rose through a clear blue sky and the air temperature steadily increased throughout the upper 50s. People have counted upwards of 200 alligators but the number we saw was considerably less. If you hope to capture photos of them bring a good really long zoom lens. I count myself lucky my snapshots are as good as they are with the 5x zoom on my iPhone 15 Pro Max. Viewing them with my 10x monocular was certainly more impressive.

This is a hike I recommend taking. But you should arrive at the park as early as you can manage because they limit access to 30 people per day. You are provided with a permit and instructions on how to enter the nature preserve. They appear to be serious about this and do require you return your permit so they can be sure everyone that goes in comes out again. I was a bit surprised they didn’t have a ranger checking out permits along the way but perhaps they do just not all the time.

I hope you enjoy the photos and 3D “fly over” you will find below.

A 3D flyover of our hike through the prairie which lead us to Lower Myakka Lake and its Deep Hole.

Photos

I think there have been on average 7 alligator attacks per year on humans throughout Florida since records have been kept by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission since 1948. Over that time 26 fatalities were counted. Here in Myakka River State Park has had none and only a small number of incidents.

--January 9, 2025 at 10:21 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

The trail to Deep Hole travels through prairie. It’s a dry prairie that I think they burn every couple years. The park limits access to Deep Hole to 30 people per day on a first-come-first-served basis.

--January 9, 2025 at 10:27 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

We have walked about a half mile. The trail is generally made of packed sand though soft spots like incomplete beach sand pop up now and then. Now and then a tree pops up too.

--January 9, 2025 at 10:33 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

We were all expecting a deep hole with some water at the bottom. If I had looked at a map perhaps I would not have been misled. The deep hole is a 130 feet deep section of Lower Myakka Lake. Here, looking south, we see alligators.

--January 9, 2025 at 11:22 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Looking to the east a couple hundred feet away are numerous alligators warming up in the sun.

--January 9, 2025 at 11:22 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Look closely for the white bird standing at the water’s edge in front of all those alligators.

--January 9, 2025 at 11:22 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

A close-up view.

--January 9, 2025 at 11:22 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Alligators aren’t the only critters here. These vultures aren’t moving much. In fact, until one did we did not notice them.

--January 9, 2025 at 11:33 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Vultures might not be as exciting as the alligators but they’re important too.

--January 9, 2025 at 11:33 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

No idea what this bird in the tree next to the vultures is.

--January 9, 2025 at 11:34 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Winter Solstice 2024 Hike

Not quite a “death match” hike

It has been several years since I did a winter solstice hike of any length. I wasn’t going to tackle the much longer, tougher trail, version that Andy and his companions would take on. I couldn’t, I suspected, keep up the required speed throughout the day. I would be left to sally forth, solo, along the Waterloo-Pinckney Trail to find my way to the endpoint about 14.5 miles east of my starting point.

I was dropped off at Loveland Road at 7:30AM. Perhaps I could have started walking right away. It was alreay beginning to lighten as we moved towards sunrise. However, I elected to wait a little while - getting colder - for more light. At this time of day it is pretty quiet. The snow absorbs some sound but when it is 16°F not much is moving to quickly at this pre-dawn hour. At least not much that I heard. When I began my hike at 7:47AM I am confident I was making the most noise in the immediate vicinity. Over the next 10 hours I would work my way along trail, making mistakes here and there, towards Goodband Road. The video and photos will give you a glimpse of what my journey was like.

This visualization of my route will give you an idea where I was.

▶️ Play Winter Solstice 2024 (not quite) Death March

Photos

Starting my version of the Winter Solstice 2024 death march. My version starts at Loveland Road. The planned hike is about 14.5 miles long. Sunrise will be in a few minutes but there is enough light to start my hike.

--December 21, 2024 at 7:47 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Passing through the area of the Waterloo Recreation Area headquarters. The sun has been brightening the sky making it feel warmer. I’m actually a bit overdressed.

--December 21, 2024 at 9:31 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

I’ve made a few mistakes along the way. I think I’ve trod about 9 miles by this point along the bike path that leads to the underpass below M-52. This would be an easy fast walk except for the black ice.

--December 21, 2024 at 1:07 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

It’s been a lovely day so far. Temperature has been in the mid 20s with on and off sunshine. Now and then the honking of Canadian geese flying overhead can be heard, now and again sandhill cranes cut loose with their slightly unnerving calls, other things chitter about, and the ever present sound of my feet crunching against the snow.

--December 21, 2024 at 1:23 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Sunset is just a few minutes away. I believe I have hiked just over 15 miles and have a bit over a mile to go. I wonder if I will have to use my headlamp before I reach the end at Goodband Road.

--December 21, 2024 at 4:56 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

The end. 16.5 miles of hiking, including 2 miles of detours, to complete my hike. Hurray. Now I have to wait for the others, doing a 25-mile hike, to arrive. I figure they will arrive in 45 to 60 minutes.

--December 21, 2024 at 5:36 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Days Out In Autumn

Gazing out across Blind Lake. The leaves are starting to properly change color. There is a bit of a chill to the air.

--October 17, 2024 at 6:10 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

10 days ago when I hiked into Blind Lake the leaves were just starting to show colors. Here and there red, tan, brown, yellow were visible but the vast majority of leaves were still green and clinging to their branches. Fall was in the air but it didn’t feel like it had really settled in. We had a series of very warm days - an Indian Summer of sorts. But you could tell it wouldn’t last.

The previous day I backpacked about 4.5 miles into Blind Lake Campground. On this steadily warming early afternoon under totally clear blue sky on a nearly glass-smooth Blind Lake I paddle back to my starting point on Halfmoon Lake: about 1.7 miles. Photo taken by Richard.

--October 18, 2024 at 12:13 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Saturday, October 25, found me up ready to head out again into Pinckney Recreation Area. The morning was sunny but slightly chilly. That probably wouldn’t matter as long as I was moving. I am sure bikers and trail runners preferred the low 50s (maybe) temperature too. The plan was to hike from Crooked Lake to Richard’s house; Lil would spend her time biking the Crooked Lake Trail; Richard would do something. Then we would all gather at his house and go fishing.

As I walked the rolling hills of Crooked Lake trail mountain bikers zipped on by heading in the other direction. A couple trail runners hustled on past. Leaves fell off the tress as the wind caused them to lose their grip. The colors that had been somewhat sparse 10 days before were in abundance now. It was a lovely morning in late October. I was somewhat past the halfway point of my hike when Richard came into view. He had decided to hike from his house towards me. That probably saved me from making a mistake and taking a somewhat longer, or at least less interesting as it would have had a road walk, hike. Togheter we walked the trails through the forest enjoying the company and the weather. Perhaps we should have stopped and had some of the hot tea I was carrying in my thermos. About 90 minutes after starting out, with one small mistake at the start in the campground (so easy to get confused in campgrounds) I found myself climbing the steps to Richard’s front door. Now we had time for tea as we waited for Lil to arrive.

The afternnon ws spent out on Richard’s pontoon boat. Perhaps none of us really has much talent for fishing. I suspect Lil has done the most; she certainly has the gear. It’s good we didn’t need the fish to survive. But it doesn’t have to be out catching your meal. It can, and in our case certainly was, about being outside with people you like in a pleasing location. We certainly had that. The Deer Camp beer made by Upper Hand Brewing along with the smoked cream cheese and crackers just helped to round out a very fine mid-autumnal afternoon.

Standing on a fishing pier jutting out into Crooked Lake. The smell of smoke from campfires drifts on the wind from nearby campsites. It’s a crisp clear morning and the leaves are really starting to change color. It’s lovely.

—October 26, 2024 at 10:46 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

We found a shallow spot, maybe 15 feet deep, on the northern shore of Halfmoon Lake. We’ve been out on the lake under pretty clear sunny skies for 90 minutes and lost a few worms to fish but caught nothing. Richard is enjoying himself as are Lil and I.

—October 26, 2024 at 2:38 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

With the fun music of Da Yoopers playing in the background and the sun shining down upon us for the past 3 hours success has come: a fish has been caught. This tiny sunfish was the first of 2 Lil caught along with a not much larger bluegill. Enough for a few bites but it’s good none of us needs the fish to survive.

--October 26, 2024 at 4:02 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Niagara Falls - May 12, 2024

Our road trip across Ontario is coming to a close and we are ending it with perhaps one of the most spectacular places you can find in North America: Niagara Falls. Since we are in Canada, specifically Toronto, we are visiting the Canadian side of the falls where Horseshoe Falls, the largest by far, resides.

We can feel a bit of mist already coming off Horseshoe Falls just downstream of where we are. If it was windier it could easily get nasty quickly.

—May 12, 2024 at 10:08 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Once we parked (and learned of the CAN$35 parking fee) we easily found our way to the Niagara River. Just follow the sound of thousands of tons of water plunging 54 to 58 meters down Horseshoe Falls (I suppose the American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls add some rumble but they’re farther away and only account for about 1/10th of the volume of the water flow that pours over the falls). As we approached the visitor center where tours like the Journey Behind the Falls start we passed through our first bit of Niagara mist. Drenching chilly droplets of water hit us with gentle force. If you stood there for a few minutes you would get quite wet. Horseshoe Falls is nearby.

We started with a journey behind the falls. After receiving our bright yellow plastic ponchos (to be recycled later) we boarded an elevator to descend about 20 meters to tunnels that lead to portals. The portals, or openings, are behind Horseshoe Falls and in another direction to lower and upper observation decks where you can see the Falls up close. Here you get your money’s worth out of the bright yellow plastic poncho which are given to every visitor. The portals let you peer through an opening that is perhaps 6 feet wide and probably no more than 10 feet high. Considering that the crest-line of Horseshoe Falls is about 2,200 feet (670m) each portal is giving you a pretty tiny glimpse of the water pouring by just a few yards from where we are standing. Even these tiny glimpses from both portals is impressive. The second portal is about a third of a way around Horseshoe Falls and seems to have a more impressive flow of water pouring by.

This is Great Portal, the second portal behind Horseshoe Falls. It sits about 200 meters around the Horseshoe: just under one third of the way round. During peak tourist season about 2,800 cubic meters of water flows over Horseshoe Falls every second. If we are generous and call this portal 1.5 meters wide that suggests about 6.2 cms water (6,200 liters per second) is passing by each second (about 45 bathtubs filled with water).

--May 12, 2024 at 10:38 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Judy is getting wet from the spray from Horseshoe Falls as she stands on the upper observation deck. Photo by Jonathan.

—May 12, 2024 at 10:47 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

On the upper deck with Horseshoe Falls thundering behind me. Photo by Jonathan.

—May 12, 2024 at 10:52 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

We were told that this is not a busy day and if that is so I am glad we were not here on a busy day. THe tunnel was full enough as it was and there were plenty of people on the observation decks experiencing the power of Horseshoe Falls up close (though not too close) and personal. We could gaze up to the top of the falls and down into the pool at their base where a Maid of the Mist was just motoring in to give her passengers a drenching and spectacular view.

This appears to be the Hornblower which is the boat that runs from the Canadian side.

—May 12, 2024 at 10:44 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

After leaving the tunnels we continued to walk along the paved promenade to where the City Cruise (Hornblower) is docked. I think this boat is smaller than the Maid of the Mists boats. LIke them it runs frequently throughout the day. A boat tour lasts about 20 minutes which is just enough time to carry passengers to within a few hundred feet of the base of Horseshoe Falls to see them in their full power and glory and get well soaked at the same time. We would get to have that experience in short order. It really is a remarkable experience that is hard to properly express. I am glad it wasn’t chilly and windy out because the cold large drops of water that splashed us were chilly enough.

A good view of Horseshoe Falls which is over twice as tall as the other two falls and considerably wider

—May 12, 2024 at 11:32 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Horseshoe Falls thunders down behind Dad. Photo by Judy

--May 12, 2024 at 11:35 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Large cold drops of water are drenching us as we stand on the upper deck at the bow of the boat. I think we are within 500 feet of the cascade that is the 670 meters wide and 54-58 meters tall Horseshoe Falls. It’s impressive.

—May 12, 2024 at 12:45 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

We’ve been soaked by Horseshoe Falls and are cruising past the falls on the American side on our way back to the dock.

--May 12, 2024 at 12:50 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

On the left is the American Falls and next to it is Bridal Veil Falls. These two falls account for just a small fraction of the water volume that pours over the three waterfalls that comprise Niagara Falls.

--May 12, 2024 at 1:34 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

One thing that surprised us as we walked along the river was the relative lack of even small eateries or food trucks. We think Niagara Parks is trying to limit the touristy aspects of the place as much as they can. However, it begs the question of where do the thousands of people who surely visit each day go when they want a bite to eat. There were a couple cafeteria-like places and perhaps a bar and grill by the boat tours dock but not much else. While we did not see places for people to eat we did see numerous large hotels strung out for a very long ways along the river. The city has a bus service,WEGO, that runs between the hotels and various points of interest but we did not take advantage of it. Perhaps visitors are all eating meals in their hotels. We do know that Niagara-on-the-Lake , a small bustling town some 20 to 30 minutes away (depending on traffic), has quite a few restaurants. We pretty much settled on the first place we came to , an Irish pub, and lunch was decent if not memorable. Perhaps we should have stood in the lengthy line that curled around the block to an ice cream parlor instead.

Cold Weather Survival Class and Camp

▶️ Play Cold Weather Survival Class and Camp

On the weekend of February 3-4, 2024 Andy and I took part in a general skills class targeted towards cold weather survival. The class was organized and taught by Michael Neiger and some fellow associates. Michael has extensive outdoor experience including considerable work in search-and-rescue. I certainly do not think I know that much about backcountry survivial and my experience is a match flame against what Michael and his colleagues bring with their bonfire of knowledge. I certainly can learn more (and what is just as good Michael knows he can still learn more).

Driving up towards Hartwick Pines State Park under steadily lightening but rather overcast skies Andy I pondered what would be covered. We arrived a little before 09:00 and found the lecture-room fairly well filled. Coffee was ever-so-slowly percolating in a giant urn and many people took Michael’s suggestion of bringing food to share up with enthusiasm. With one thing and another the morning session didn’t start at 09:00 but in time people were settled and the presentation of information began.

This was an overview class. Michael and Todd had a lot of material to cover and they still needed time for lunch and then the outdoor portion of the class. That would be the pattern for both days: information presentation in the morning and outdoor skills work outside in the afternoon. I’m not going to try and discuss all that was talked about in the mornings from navigation, what to carry on your body, suriving on ice and how to recover if you fall through, communications, food, shelter building, and so much more. If you want to spend time outdoors , especially away from well travelled spots, a good primer class like this is certainly worthwhile. Of course, simple information dumps only go so far; you need to practice skills. In this class that meant some basic fire building skills and some basic shelter building.

I wish I had video of us building the snow trench. With over 20 people tossing snow on to a pile that was surely 8 feet long by at leastt 6 feet wide and likely 4 feet tall did not take all that long. Then a couple people hollowed out the center while the rest of us gathered long branches and pine boughs to place atop of the opened-to-the-sky roof. While only one person could really lay down inside the trench you could get two, maybe three, people squeezed inside sitting against each other. It certainly would be proof against nasty weather outside and would warm up too.

We also threw up a debris-style shelter. With many people working to gather materiel it goes quickly. If I have a complaint against the class it is that you likley don’t get a proper sense of how long it would take to build a shelter like this beacause with 2 or 3 people it would certainly take far longer. But knowing how to do it and then doing it are valuable as you will know it is possible. Michael also quickly showed how a survival space-blanket can be turned into a basic shelter against bad weather.

On the second day we had more information-packed sldies to abosrb before venturing outside, again sunny low 40s (hardly cold) weather, to practice skills: fire making. If people took nothing else away from the class but the fact that patience is required and that you need far more fuel of all sizes than you think then I would say it was a success. I think everyone got their fires going. Goodness knows it is easier to get things going properly when you have a bit of help from your partners. To be sure Sunny, Kristen, and I probably took a good 20 minutes to get our kindling, tinder, and fuel sticks ready, then lit and burning. But we got the snow in my modest-sized cup melting and boiling. Practice and patience win the day.

I do not know how many people camped at vairous places around Grayling. I suspect the local hotels saw a bit of extra business which I bet was welcome because this has been a poor winter for snow-sports based recreation. Andy and I managed to carefully drive into the campground at Lake John. We heard a dog and some people in the distance but I think we had the campground to ourselves and the wildlife we heard. The barking of a deer was the most noticeable but the hoot of a great horned owl is always nice to hear too.

One of the things the several dozen attendees at this cold weather survival class including me (left)and Andy (right) did was build a snow trench shelter.

--February 3, 2024 at 2:42 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

--February 4, 2024 at 4:03 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Porto, Portugal, 2024: OUr Days in Porto

We piled into our first of two taxis (what they had to do as our initial ride got a flat tire) for the ride to the surprisingly large airport for Gran Canaria at 07:00. It was a straightforward ride to the airport and we got through ticketing and security in short order. We found a adequate bite to eat and settled down to wait for our first flight of the day. It’s a straightforward trip to Porto even though it does require two flights that go somewhat out of their way. About ten hours after we left Agaete and an absolutely lousy ham and cheese (sort of) sandwich on our flights we arrived in Porto, Portugal. We settled into our rooms at the Four Points Sheraton in Matosinhos. We are a couple blocks from the beach which turns out to be surprisingly wide white sand beach. We found a Napalese-style cuisine restaurant which served us rather good dinner which was a refreshing change from the dinners of the past week.

One nice feature of this hotel is the rooms are quite inexpensive at €75/night. You pay an extra €12.50 per person per day (and it must be every day) for a buffet-style breakfast. It’s money we might be able to better spend elsewhere given the quality of the breakfasts but we’ve bitten the bullet and that is that. The hotel in Las Palmas was easily twice as much. I’ve no idea what the Occidental Roca Negra in Agaete charged. The rooms here are exceptionally nice and goodness knows you aren’t going to find a hotel room in a city with a quarter million people living in it back home that is comparably priced. It’s probably this cheap because we aren’t really in the heart of the city where the historic center and far more touristy bits are located. The Ribeira by the River Douro is probably about 8km away: call it is 20 minute Uber/taxi ride. We decided to play things by ear as Dad was under the weather but we had at least one place to visit: Serralves Contemporary Museum of Art. From the hotel it’s a couple miles walk.

The walk Apple Maps took us on, chosen because it was the “fastest” was alright but not really exciting. We passed by a large park that we suspect was quite nice. We also suspected that going along a major avenue that we would later drive down would have been the better choice for city-seeing. Our route was residential and a bit dull. But the morning was sunny and warming towards the upper 50s so it was enjoyable enough. Fortified with a pastry of some sort or other and small cappuccinos (how else in Europe) we enter the Serralves Foundation complex. The buildings that house the museum and other things are massive. I think the architecture is a bit stark and rigid. The intereors are massive volumes that I think could eaisly contains 2 or 3 of homes of the size we have back home. Those volumes seem terribly empty. And the art just didn’t do anything for me. The space with the hanging ropes and patterned tiles around the walls that featured a ramp leading down to a tiled expanse that seemed to slope further down in front of a window that framed some wonderful trees was the best space. Too bad a photograph couldn’t capture the sense of the space.

However, the grounds were a very nice surprise. We ambled through the paper birch glade to an allee that had at its entry a sculpture by Claes Odenburg: a giant spade. I suppose it honors people who work the soil. While it’s impressive I preferred the vortex-like twisting metal that came up next as we strolled along the sweet gum tree lined allee. We had to watch where we placed our feet lest we trod upon seedpods from the trees. Those pesky pods can easily roll under your foot and were everywhere. The allee eventually took us to a set of connected pools. Everything is wonderfully maintained and landscaped. It is formal in its style but lovely.

Our walk through the grounds closed with our exploration along a boardwalk that runs easily a few hundred feet through the canopy tops of the trees in a portion of the complex. I’ve no idea what trees we walked through but it was an enjoyable stroll giving us a chance to look down from upon high. It also really marked the end of our time in the complex since after we returned to the main building we found that the restaurant served lunch but it was a €17-per-person buffet and we have had enough buffets for a while. Since Dad was flagging we got an Uber back to the hotel and tried the little place we had seen earlier for lunch. Arcadia was surprisingly good.

Mom and I did a bit more exploring of the beach/promenade later in the day while Dad worked on conquering his cold. We had a very light-style pizza: light crust, minimal cheese and sauce, decent toppings though not hot enough pizza at Pizzaria Luzzo’s. We suspect they do a brisk business even though, like many places, they don’t open until 19:00 (7:00PM). The spaghetti bolognese we got for Dad as carry-out was actually a better choice.

The Last Day

It’s too bad we didn’t find this walking tour before coming to Porto. Mom found what looks like a lovely walking tour if you have only one day (though they suggest 2 is better) in Porto. But with Dad still contending with his cold a 6-hour tour spanning several kilometers of possibly hilly walking and at least some rides on public transportation just wasn’t going to happen. We settled on a little exploring at the queyside where the bridges tour boats moored near Ribeira Square and Pont Dom Luis 1 (Dom Luis 1 Bridge). I’m sure we would have liked to do more but you do what you can or are willing to do. It’s a lively area. Tourists, locals, groups of school-aged children going places, all moving about in a fairly small region. That would become more noticeable later in the day when we climbed 200-odd steps and some ramps to get to the upper level of the Dom Luis 1 Bridge passing through areas that seemed rather devoid of life. The sun shone down in an essentially clear sky. Little wind blew. It felt considerably warmer than the day before though I supect the actualy air temperature was barely any higher. The boat pulled away from the dock on time and we were treated to a gentle ride up and then down the River Douro under half a dozen bridges. I wish I oculd tell you about the places we passed but it was a trial to get the app to work. Bad design: light gray text on a white background to select the langauge of choice. Hard for me to read; hard for people not really comfortable with technology to use. By the time we had it working properly I am not at all sure it was synced with the boat’s movements. It was then the descriptions were not up to the locations we passed. I’ve no doubt there is a vast amount of history here but I absorbed none of it. Mom and Dad didn’t gather much informaiton either. However, it was a pretty ride on a nice late morning.

When we climbed away from the river to find the entry point on our side of the river we had to contend with about 200 steps of various heights and some sloping streets. It seemed to pass through pretty dead bits of city for a time before popping out on a bustling street where I suspect a lot of things were going on. I was able to go out on to the bridge and the views are pretty good though I am pretty sure they won’t remain in memory for long. While I did that Mom and Dad found some shops to explore. But in time it was time to get an Uber and ride back to the area of the hotel: Dad was ready to be done. We settled on a second lunch at Arcadia and I am sad to report our second meal selections were nowhere near as good as our prevous ones had been. In fact, they were pretty mediocre if not donwright poor. Don’t get the stuffed crepes. My gelato from the ice cream place down the street was far more enjoyable.

I am quite sure there is a lot to do in Porto. Two or three days would be plenty for us under normal conditions I think. It’s hard to get explore when someone is really under the weather. If I were adventurous I suppose I could have gone out on my own but I’m not willing to do that. Maybe in an English-speaking city. That’s not really a given here. We will find a nearby place for dinner. Maybe one of the hole-in-the-wall seafood (maybe some meat) places Mom and I saw yesterday or the Nepalese place again. Tomorrow we get what we all fully epect not much from box breakfasts from the hotel at 06:30 and get a taxi to the aiport to start our flights (around 09:00) back to Rhode Island. Is it wrong of me to say I am looking forward to picking up dinner at Dave’s or perhaps Picasso’s Pizza? I think we all are.

Photos

Claes Oldenburg’s spade marks the entrance, close enough, to the formal gardens here at the Serralves Contemporary Museum of MOdern Art. I suppose it is a salute to the people who work the soil like master gardeners like Mom here. Photo by Jonathan

—February 27, 2024 at 11:35 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

I am not sure who created this vortex of a sculpture. We have passed thorugh a blade of birch white birch trees and entered an allee lined with sweet gum trees that are already dropping their seedpods all over the ground waiting for someone to step on them. Photo by Jonathan

—February 27, 2024 at 11:38 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Looking back along the sweet gum tree allee. It’s a cool sunny day.

—February 27, 2024 at 11:40 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

The lands around the buildings are landscaped in a formal style. This set of connected pools is just one example of the lovely grounds.

—February 27, 2024 at 11:50 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

I do not know what types of trees we are walking through as we walk along this boardwalk amongst the treetops. It is a lovely stroll.

—February 27, 2024 at 11:58 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

This is a remarkable sculpture by American artist Janet Echelman. It’s called Sea Moves or Sea Changes. The net moves.

—February 27, 2024 at 2:33 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

We think many of the buildings here along the River Douro are residential. I expect they go for a pretty hefty sum. The colorful facades are created by extensive tile mosaics.

—February 28, 2024 at 10:51 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

—February 28, 2024 at 11:44 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

—February 28, 2024 at 11:44 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

I think we are nearing the downstream end of our cruise. The river is lined with all sorts of biuldings. Not really visible from here are the intricate tilework facades.

—February 28, 2024 at 11:55 AM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

—February 28, 2024 at 12:11 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Near the dock, though at the end of the ride, for our cruise. I do not know what the church on the Villa Nova de Gaia side of the RIver Douro is. The bridge is the Dom Luis 1 bridge. Perhaps you can see people walking on the upper level. Trams run across the central section of that level.

—February 28, 2024 at 12:13 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map

Views from the center of the upper level of Pont Dom Luis 1 (Dom Luis 1 Bridge) looking upstream (top) and downstream (bottom ) from a couple hundred feet above the River Douro.

--February 28, 2024 at 12:52 PM.

Maps are centered on the photo: Google map, Apple map, OpenTopoMap map