Sunday, July 11, 2010
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
TGO Challenge Day 14: May 27, 2010 - Stonehaven and Montrose
It rained a bit during the night but it wasn't enough to really bother anyone. I think I was irritated more by the light that was shining into my shelter. I also spent a stupidly long time finding my way back to my campsite after visiting the bathroom. Annoying. By the time morning came with overcast skies and humid air. We packed up our dew coated shelters and left the caravan campground a bit past 08:30.
Photo: Nicolas and Jeroen hiking down a dirt road. Our last day together would start out with a several kilometer road walk then feature a dozen or so kilometers within the Fetteresso Forest, and I'd top it off with another ten or so clicks on a busy paved road. While the paths in the Fetteresso are often not the prettiest and the forest is clearly a working forest it is still a nice place.
The first few miles of the walk towards the sea today were on roads. The roads were not that busy which made it tolerable.. We found that we were able to cover the 7 or so kilometers to the northern edge of Pitreadie Farm near Moss-side where we took a break before beginning the lengthy crossing of the big fields that are home to numerous cows. It was starting to cloud over and what I thought was going to be a scorcher of a day was turning out not to be so bad. I pulled ahead of my companions who were taking a longer rest to get a break from their massive packs. I strolled along the wide farm path near large colorful cattle who sometimes seemed to care I was moving by and sometimes seemed to barely register my presence. I am basing this pretty much entirely on the quality and volume of the moos that some let loose as I went by. Perhaps that doesn't count for much. I am happy none really moved towards me though some definitely did look my way. At the southern edge of the farm field I found a locked gate and the only way over was to climb over a barbed wire fence. This happens now and then and I find it really annoying. The wire is just a pain to deal with especially as you worry about cutting yourself. Nicolas and Jeroen caught up to me at this point.
We quickly entered the Fetteresso Forest. We ascended through the managed forest paths as the weateher got blustery and we put our rain gear on. The paths in the forest here run from forest road to very narrow, the width of a bike tire it seems, and it can be confusing at times. You need to pay closer attention to how many intersections you have passed so you can properly place yourself on a map. If you are not used to this sort of thing the Fetteresso can be daunting but I think Nicolas had no real issues with the forest. Our biggest complaint was that the really narrow paths were often a flooded mess. But even though sometimes the going was a bit slow we made fine progress through the various types of paths and tracks. That is perhaps the single most notable thing about the Fetteresso Forest: the variety of path types. One moment you can be walking a hiking/biking trail and the next passing by a huge stack of cut timber on a logging road. This is a working forest more akin to something you might find in the Hundred Mile Wilderness (not!) than a large forest that is just allowed to grow as it would. ''In early afternoon we pass by the southern edge of Hill of Hobseat and that is about when it really clouded over and subsequently began to pour - not far from Mergie.
Photo: The Fetteresso Forest mixes wide and narrow paths with forest roads. It can be a confusing place if you do not pay attention to the map and check your location often. However, it shouldn't be feared. One thing that is notable about this working forest is that the forest itself is really quite inpenetrable beyond the paths.
Nicolas and Jeroen decided that they were done for the day. Jeroen's back was acting up so pushing on the remaining several miles to Stonehaven was not in the cards. I was unwilling to set up camp so early especially since it was dumping rain. I decided to continue on. From Mergie you have a couple of options of how you head to Stonehaven. The minor roads probably require a bit more hiking and you have a wretched highway crossing unless you walk a way north to Slug road and cross the highway using the overpass. Walking down Slug road is shorter but a slog along a far busier, though it is just one lane in each direction, road. I took the latter route and just had to pay a bit more attention to the fast traffic, especially trucks, as they zoomed on by. I walked through the rain wishing it would stop. I gaze out across the road and through the inhabited farm fields and waited for the rain to subside. Eventually it did and I just had to worry about getting splashed.
I spent about 2.5 hours walking down SLug road towards Stonehaven. As I entered the town the sun broke out and warmed things back up and I felt as though I was ending my walk on a high note. Sure I had no idea where the train station was and I was even in a bit of doubt as to where the sea actually was but I had made it. I was done. I found the huge hotel in the heart of downtown and eventually figured out I had walked right by the train station. Once I figured out where things were it was a fairly easy matter to catch a train to Montrose and find my way , with an able assist from both Challenge Control and a store owner on High Street, to the Park Hotel. I entered Control around 20:00 and was welcomed by Robin. My walk was done. The last tough bit of navigation to the George House was all that was left: turned out that was the worst part of the day. I went a bit astray a couple of times before finding the place. It's a nice enough hotel though my bed feels a bit lumpy.
* * *
I was right that my bed was lumpy. I think it might have had a tilt in it as well. Considering that I was paying for this room I think the bed should have been more comfortable than it was (though it was hardly the worst I have ever slept on; that award probably still belongs to The Doyle or that horrid place in Anchorage that Joe and I used one night). However, the rest of the room and the breakfast were good. At breakfast I found Louise Kiernan and the rest of her family group along with Barbara Peers. We didn't have much of a chance to talk as they were getting ready to depart and I was in the midst of a cooling breakfast.
I checked out and wandered over to the Park Hotel and Challenge Control under a sunny sky. It was going to be a good final day for the last walkers to enter Montrose and check in. I had a couple things to pick up at Control that I had forgotten to fetch yesterday and once that was done I just hung out. Challenge Control can be a beehive of activity when all of the Challengers are out and I reckon it is even busier when scores of walkers are arriving. But today, Friday the final day of the Challenge, it wasn't too busy. People trickled in and signed out and were presented with the same goodies I had received the night before. I was waiting for Nocolas and Jeroen to arrive. I knew they were on their way and it was just a matter of time before they strolled in. That time eventually came and I got to congratulate them on completing their walk. That is pretty much how the day went. Chatting with people who had just arrived, others who were hanging out like me, and just killing time. Most of us were wiping out the day until the final Challenge dinner. I had decided that I would stay for the , somewhat overpriced I think, meal and catch the last train to Glasgow. Had I planned things better I'd have cancelled my room in Glasgow and stuck around Friday night so I could have the full enjoyment of the dinner and the afterglow that would surely take place afterwards. Oh well. While I enjoy the company and the speeches from people like Roger Smith are fun the food the Park Hotel provides for your £17.50 is so-so.
Location: Stonehaven and Montrose
-- Post From My iPad
Photo: Nicolas and Jeroen hiking down a dirt road. Our last day together would start out with a several kilometer road walk then feature a dozen or so kilometers within the Fetteresso Forest, and I'd top it off with another ten or so clicks on a busy paved road. While the paths in the Fetteresso are often not the prettiest and the forest is clearly a working forest it is still a nice place.
The first few miles of the walk towards the sea today were on roads. The roads were not that busy which made it tolerable.. We found that we were able to cover the 7 or so kilometers to the northern edge of Pitreadie Farm near Moss-side where we took a break before beginning the lengthy crossing of the big fields that are home to numerous cows. It was starting to cloud over and what I thought was going to be a scorcher of a day was turning out not to be so bad. I pulled ahead of my companions who were taking a longer rest to get a break from their massive packs. I strolled along the wide farm path near large colorful cattle who sometimes seemed to care I was moving by and sometimes seemed to barely register my presence. I am basing this pretty much entirely on the quality and volume of the moos that some let loose as I went by. Perhaps that doesn't count for much. I am happy none really moved towards me though some definitely did look my way. At the southern edge of the farm field I found a locked gate and the only way over was to climb over a barbed wire fence. This happens now and then and I find it really annoying. The wire is just a pain to deal with especially as you worry about cutting yourself. Nicolas and Jeroen caught up to me at this point.
We quickly entered the Fetteresso Forest. We ascended through the managed forest paths as the weateher got blustery and we put our rain gear on. The paths in the forest here run from forest road to very narrow, the width of a bike tire it seems, and it can be confusing at times. You need to pay closer attention to how many intersections you have passed so you can properly place yourself on a map. If you are not used to this sort of thing the Fetteresso can be daunting but I think Nicolas had no real issues with the forest. Our biggest complaint was that the really narrow paths were often a flooded mess. But even though sometimes the going was a bit slow we made fine progress through the various types of paths and tracks. That is perhaps the single most notable thing about the Fetteresso Forest: the variety of path types. One moment you can be walking a hiking/biking trail and the next passing by a huge stack of cut timber on a logging road. This is a working forest more akin to something you might find in the Hundred Mile Wilderness (not!) than a large forest that is just allowed to grow as it would. ''In early afternoon we pass by the southern edge of Hill of Hobseat and that is about when it really clouded over and subsequently began to pour - not far from Mergie.
Photo: The Fetteresso Forest mixes wide and narrow paths with forest roads. It can be a confusing place if you do not pay attention to the map and check your location often. However, it shouldn't be feared. One thing that is notable about this working forest is that the forest itself is really quite inpenetrable beyond the paths.
Nicolas and Jeroen decided that they were done for the day. Jeroen's back was acting up so pushing on the remaining several miles to Stonehaven was not in the cards. I was unwilling to set up camp so early especially since it was dumping rain. I decided to continue on. From Mergie you have a couple of options of how you head to Stonehaven. The minor roads probably require a bit more hiking and you have a wretched highway crossing unless you walk a way north to Slug road and cross the highway using the overpass. Walking down Slug road is shorter but a slog along a far busier, though it is just one lane in each direction, road. I took the latter route and just had to pay a bit more attention to the fast traffic, especially trucks, as they zoomed on by. I walked through the rain wishing it would stop. I gaze out across the road and through the inhabited farm fields and waited for the rain to subside. Eventually it did and I just had to worry about getting splashed.
I spent about 2.5 hours walking down SLug road towards Stonehaven. As I entered the town the sun broke out and warmed things back up and I felt as though I was ending my walk on a high note. Sure I had no idea where the train station was and I was even in a bit of doubt as to where the sea actually was but I had made it. I was done. I found the huge hotel in the heart of downtown and eventually figured out I had walked right by the train station. Once I figured out where things were it was a fairly easy matter to catch a train to Montrose and find my way , with an able assist from both Challenge Control and a store owner on High Street, to the Park Hotel. I entered Control around 20:00 and was welcomed by Robin. My walk was done. The last tough bit of navigation to the George House was all that was left: turned out that was the worst part of the day. I went a bit astray a couple of times before finding the place. It's a nice enough hotel though my bed feels a bit lumpy.
* * *
I was right that my bed was lumpy. I think it might have had a tilt in it as well. Considering that I was paying for this room I think the bed should have been more comfortable than it was (though it was hardly the worst I have ever slept on; that award probably still belongs to The Doyle or that horrid place in Anchorage that Joe and I used one night). However, the rest of the room and the breakfast were good. At breakfast I found Louise Kiernan and the rest of her family group along with Barbara Peers. We didn't have much of a chance to talk as they were getting ready to depart and I was in the midst of a cooling breakfast.
I checked out and wandered over to the Park Hotel and Challenge Control under a sunny sky. It was going to be a good final day for the last walkers to enter Montrose and check in. I had a couple things to pick up at Control that I had forgotten to fetch yesterday and once that was done I just hung out. Challenge Control can be a beehive of activity when all of the Challengers are out and I reckon it is even busier when scores of walkers are arriving. But today, Friday the final day of the Challenge, it wasn't too busy. People trickled in and signed out and were presented with the same goodies I had received the night before. I was waiting for Nocolas and Jeroen to arrive. I knew they were on their way and it was just a matter of time before they strolled in. That time eventually came and I got to congratulate them on completing their walk. That is pretty much how the day went. Chatting with people who had just arrived, others who were hanging out like me, and just killing time. Most of us were wiping out the day until the final Challenge dinner. I had decided that I would stay for the , somewhat overpriced I think, meal and catch the last train to Glasgow. Had I planned things better I'd have cancelled my room in Glasgow and stuck around Friday night so I could have the full enjoyment of the dinner and the afterglow that would surely take place afterwards. Oh well. While I enjoy the company and the speeches from people like Roger Smith are fun the food the Park Hotel provides for your £17.50 is so-so.
Location: Stonehaven and Montrose
-- Post From My iPad
Sunday, June 20, 2010
TGO Challenge Day 13: May 26, 2010 - Waulkmill Campground
The biggest difference between a hotel and a B&B has to be in the food they offer you at breakfast. I had a great room that simply based on the number of people it could sleep would probably cost an arm and a leg in some places but the choices I had for breakfast were meager compared to any of the B&Bs I stayed at. It was a simple Continental style breakfast with small cereal boxes of various cereals with a small plastic bottle of milk suitable for a bowl or two and that was about it. I joined Nicolas and Jeroen and we ate our small breakfasts together. A regular cooked breakfast definitely is leaps and bounds better but I suppose we could argue that this cereal breakfast is much more akin to what most of us have on the trail. It's just that when you spend good money for a room you want to end with a good meal too.
I decided that I was going to buy the Paramo Qito jacket the night before and so while Nicolas and I went to the outfitter so I could make the purchase and he could check on a couple things Jeroen visited the grocery to get a bit more food. When we met up a little later it was edging past 09:20. It was clear and the day was warming up nicely. We gathered our gaar and set out for the primarily road walking of the day.
Photo: Even a road walk can be pretty when you cross rivers like this. Granted this was the only water we would see today but the point is still valid.
We started out walking along fairly quiet roads that would take us in and out of small woods and past farm fields. It was easy walking through what I would classify as rural lands not unlike places in farm country you can find almost anywhere. It was easy going and as we walked we chatted about the events that had lead to this point and other things that you talk about during a lazy walk. Soon we found we had worked our way, via back roads, a few miles and we saw a couple other Challengers coming down the road. The couple were Lou and Phyllis LaBorwit. They were taking a more direct route to get where they were going. We walked together for a short time but soon we had to go our way and they went theirs. Soon clouds took over the sky and it started to spit just a little bit. Just enough that we felt we ought to put our raingear on. That gave me a chance to try out my new Paramo Qito.
Photo: I look spiffy in my new jacket. It was particularly good at keeping me comfortable when the wind picked up on this slightly cooler afternoon.
We paused at the top of a hill in Slewdrum Forest near Muckle Ord. It would be our last break of the day as we just had to walk down the gentle, though seemingly endless, hill to the Waulkmill Campground. It was early afternoon and seemed too early to stop but that was just what we did. We found our patch of grass by some picnic tables to set up our camp. That is what we got for our £9.00. Sure we got access to a bathroom and showers but it really isn't that much when you think about it. Of course perhaps I would have felt differently if I had felt like using the shower as Jeroen would do but I don't think so.
There is a restaurant next to the campground. I am not sure of its name though I heard it said several times. Nicolas and I went in there while Jeroen decided to take a nap. It was mid-afternoon and a few people and a dog were at this surprisingly large inn. We settled in for some tea and later beer. It was a nice place to kill time which is precisely what we were doing. I later had dinner, pretty good, at this eatery. I think if we had shown up just a little earlier than we had we would have found some other Challengers. Instead it was just us and a few locals. Not a bad way to spend the afternoon and early evening. It is raining now as I write this under my Trailstar bathed in the rather glaring glow of a lamp near ground level that is shining too brightly into my shelter. Still I think I will sleep well enough as although there are many campers here I think most of them are empty.
Photo: Our camp in the RV campground. We have the range of shelters here from Nicolas' Akto through Jeroen's Tarptent to my Trailstar.
Location: Waulkmill Camoground
-- Post From My iPad
Thursday, June 17, 2010
TGO Challenge Day 12: May 25, 2010 - Aboyne
After a night's sleep that seemed to be over all to quickly I walked out of the Glenernan Guest House on a pleasant somewhat cloudy but not threatening morning. I found my way down to the old train station where teh Deeside Way runs and almost immediately found two backpackers with staggeringly large packs - two Challengers going my way. Nicolas and Jeroen are the two TGO Challengers from Belgium. Nicolas has done the Challenge several times and I fully expect he will be the first from his country to do ten crossings. Jeroen is on his first Challenge. They were going to walk the Deeside Way to Aboyne and since that was what I had decided to do I joined them. My plan before had been to climb Mt. Keen but I wimped out. It was probably really chilly up on that easternmost Munro anyway. The walk to Aboyne along the hike and bike path that runs near the Dee was going to be considerably shorter and clearly a lot easier as it would not rise to 3,000 feet but stay at the river's elevation.
Photo: Just one of the views from the former railroad grade that has now turned into a hiking and biking trail. It is an easy stroll between the two small river towns of Ballater and Aboyne.
It isn't the most exciting of walks you can do but the path is not a bad one and the scenery, what there is of it, isn't bad. Having the river for company a lot of the way helps out a lot. Nicolas is a talker and I found that we were able to chat about a fair bit quite easily. Now and then Jeroen would chime in but he was far less involved in the conversation perhaps because his english isn't as strong as Nicolas' but he could also be shy. We strolled down the former railroad track pausing a couple times for breaks and in fairly short order we found ourselves approaching the flooded areas of the path that are near Aboyne. We found our way to the outfitters where my companions wanted to check out some of the Paramo clothing for themselves and family members. I also took a good long look at some of the clothing as I had been hearing good things about items like the Qito rain jacket for a long time. The outfitters knew all about the Challenge and as we browsed they fed us tea. I would not be surprised if other Challengers pass through here and end up spending some money like all of us would end up doing. By the time we walked out of the store my Belgium companions had both purchased Paramo clothing and I was on the fence and tethering towards buying a Qito jacket it was mid-afternoon. We worked our way over to the Boat Inn which is a serious hotel and got ourselves rooms. Though the rooms are on the pricy side, especially for one person, they are well appointed coming with a kitchenette. I know other Challengers camped out not far from the hotel and I am also aware of a few Challengers who stayed in other guest houses in the area. I think we were the only ones though at the Boat Inn.
After a relaxing shower and a fine meal at the restaurant and a few congenial drinks shared with my new Belgium hiking buddies we went off to our respective rooms for a fairly early night's bedtime as the rains continued to come down in fits and starts.
Location: Aboyne (The Boat Inn)
-- Post From My iPad
Photo: Just one of the views from the former railroad grade that has now turned into a hiking and biking trail. It is an easy stroll between the two small river towns of Ballater and Aboyne.
It isn't the most exciting of walks you can do but the path is not a bad one and the scenery, what there is of it, isn't bad. Having the river for company a lot of the way helps out a lot. Nicolas is a talker and I found that we were able to chat about a fair bit quite easily. Now and then Jeroen would chime in but he was far less involved in the conversation perhaps because his english isn't as strong as Nicolas' but he could also be shy. We strolled down the former railroad track pausing a couple times for breaks and in fairly short order we found ourselves approaching the flooded areas of the path that are near Aboyne. We found our way to the outfitters where my companions wanted to check out some of the Paramo clothing for themselves and family members. I also took a good long look at some of the clothing as I had been hearing good things about items like the Qito rain jacket for a long time. The outfitters knew all about the Challenge and as we browsed they fed us tea. I would not be surprised if other Challengers pass through here and end up spending some money like all of us would end up doing. By the time we walked out of the store my Belgium companions had both purchased Paramo clothing and I was on the fence and tethering towards buying a Qito jacket it was mid-afternoon. We worked our way over to the Boat Inn which is a serious hotel and got ourselves rooms. Though the rooms are on the pricy side, especially for one person, they are well appointed coming with a kitchenette. I know other Challengers camped out not far from the hotel and I am also aware of a few Challengers who stayed in other guest houses in the area. I think we were the only ones though at the Boat Inn.
After a relaxing shower and a fine meal at the restaurant and a few congenial drinks shared with my new Belgium hiking buddies we went off to our respective rooms for a fairly early night's bedtime as the rains continued to come down in fits and starts.
Location: Aboyne (The Boat Inn)
-- Post From My iPad
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
TGO Challenge Day 11: May 24, 2010 - Ballater
I'm not sure exactly when I walked out the door of my B&B but it was after 09:00. The skies were overcast and it felt a bit blustery. I walked down the quiet road towards the forest that has paths that lead, among other places, past the Lion's Face rock formation. The woods here are full of nice paths and I began ascending the path I thought would take me where I needed to go. But I had gone the wrong way and as I gained elevation I realized I had made an error and was climbing Craag Choinnich. As I left the woods I noticed that the wind had picked up considerably and I donned my poncho more for wind protection than against the spitting rains. The view from the top of the peak was nice enough but it really was not worth the extra time and effort to get up there given the quality of the weather. However, on a nice day I think this must be a popular spot. I went back down and took a path that would take me out to the A93. I ended up popping out a lot sooner than I would have liked. The best path for avoiding the A93 turns out to be off to the right of where I was. Walking the busy road was not much fun but you do what you have to do.
Photo: The view from the Craag Choinnich. Definitely a windy morning up on this fairly exposed bit of rock above Braemar.
I crossed over the Invercauld Bridge into the Balloochbuie Forest and began heading towards Balmoral Castle. At this point the walking is all along forest service style roads. The roads in this managed forest are very well cared for. In fact I would pass by a road crew that was adding gravel to the road base and then flattening it down with a steam roller, what a huge racket that made. During part of this time walking under the now clear skies I hustled to keep up with another Challenger who set a pace I really could not keep up with over the long haul. We passed by the old cottage, with some aggressive dogs that I definitely would not trust, where two years back I realized I was going the wrong way (fortunately a path exists that leads, or used to, back towards Glas Alt Shiel and Gelder Shiel bothy). My hiking buddy had been hiking for a lot longer than I and decided to pause for a tea break. I kept going along the forest road alone.
Photos: We were still a little ways from the castle at Balmoral when we encountered these hairy horses and reddish brown cattle. The walk had been through managed forest up to this point where farm fields took over before coming to the castle and its immediate surrounds.
As I was photographing some rather hairy horses in fields not that far from Balmoral Castle my erstwhile partner caught up to me and we continued on towards the castle. We had hoped to see the castle but we couldn't get close to it without paying an entrance fee which we did not intend to do. We both thought there was a tea room we could get a drink at but if it was present I certainly did not see it (we had separated again by this point). It was time to head down the B road towards Ballater. This was a quiet road with infrequent traffic which made it tolerable. But it is a long walk.
Passing by the sign reading "Ballater 6" around 16:00 was a rather depressing event. It meant I still had 6 miles to go and I had thought I was a bit closer than that. I pushed on. I passed the old memorial to Queen Victoria and pushed on. I passed by some nice farms with huge fields and shaggy horses. Some had people working in them. I kept pushing on. I passed a sign telling me that Spital of Glenmuick was 7 miles away and continued on along the eastern bank of the river Dee. Traffic increased and at last I was crossing the bridge that would put me in the heart of Ballater - it was a bit pasted 18:00. If only I had known where the campground was I might have gone right there and camped out but instead I spent quite a bit of time tracking down a room. I ran into a few people, Challenters from prior years who recognized me, and learned from them of a possible place to stay. Turned out they were full but the lady who ran the place called another guest house and found that he had a room left. I walked over to that B&B (turned out to be farther away than I had thought though still only 5 minutes from the heart of the village) and found a welcoming B&B waiting for me (the Glenernan Guest House). Once I settled in I went down to the Alexandra where I had learned I could get a good meal and was likely to find other Challengers. The guest house owner was right on both counts.
I had a reasonably good steak though nothing special after enjoying a hard cider at the bar while waiting for a table. As I finished off my meal Mase, Paddy, and Jill who I had first met back at Stravaigers campground and bunkhouse in Fort Augustus came on by. They had already eaten but were hanging out enjoying the fine atmosphere of the place before returning to their campsite. I joined them and for the next few hours, until the staff told us it was time for them to close, we enjoyed each others company and shared a few good drinks. It was a great way to spend the night. I left them to return to the campground (never did figure out where it was) and I went back to my B&B. As I arrived I met the owner who was closing things up for the night. I hope I did not seem to drunk. I don't think I was. I'll sleep well.
Location: Ballater (near Glenernan B&B)
-- Post From My iPad
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)