June 22: Mom and Dad’s anniversary.This will be our final day in Alesund and it is dawning pretty clear with the promise of good weather. The plan today is to take a cruise along the Hjørundfjord and see what we will find on what is noted as being one of the lesser visited but very spectacular fjords. Instead of taking a guided tour, they must exist, we will ride what we think is something more like a regularly scheduled ferry run that connects the hamlets that run the length of the 20-kilometers long fjord from Øye at the fjord’s source with Alesund at the mouth (actually a bit west) of the fjord.
When we found our boat there was no one around. No tourists, no workers, just us it seemed. In a few minutes some boat workers appeared but no one else did. We boarded the board and we were its sole passengers, the 3 of us, and the boat easily accommodates 200 people.The boat staff saw us seated, gave a perfunctory safety talk, informed us that we could buy drinks including wine and vanished to do what they must have to do. We settled down inside the tinted glass cabin alone amongst what must have numbered close to 200 seats.
The boat left promptly and we began motoring down the channel between Sula and Alesund. We passed by docks with big and small boats, signs of construction, signs of much activity. At this point you are on Borgunfjorden which despite the name is not actually a fjord. But it would not take long before we turned to the south and entered Hjørundfjord proper.
At its widest the fjord is about 3km across. It’s doesn’t feel that wide except in a few places. I am sure that must be an illusion caused by the mountains that plunge seemingly so precipitously down into the water. This fjord has a handful of hamlets sprinkled along its length. You can reach some of them via a road but many can only be reached by boat. Our boat will take us to Øye which is a hamlet of 50 people 25 of whom work at the Hotel Union which has stood proud since 1891 serving a a high-end clientele (pretty sure the least expensive room is around $500/night). It looks like a fantastic hotel and it certainly is set in a lovely setting. Along the way we passed by other hamlets but we did not stop. Perhaps the boat only stops if a person has reserved ahead of time.
We had just enough time in Øye to visit the Hotel Union and buy coffees. It’s dark inside so I wasn’t able to explore even a little to see the distinctive rooms they boast. Each room is unique and named for someone famous who has stayed at the hotel. From what little I saw, and the more Mom and Dad saw, it was quite clear the hotel attempts - and I assume succeeds - in providing a memorable experience perhaps bringing up visions of the gilded age of the latter 1800s when wealthy travelers from the United Kingdom (lords and Ladies - a hotel staffer actually used the former term) who would travel here by steamship.
We hurried back to board the boat. As we stepped through the cabin doors the boatman brought the gangplank up and began casting off. We were the only passengers on the way out and the only ones departing Øye. We stopped at Sæbø, where I believe children in the area, all attend school and picked up 3 more passengers: doubling the passenger compliment. It was just as pretty a cruise back to Alesund as it had been going out. How can you not enjoy looking at the tree-covered slopes with plunging waterfalls, patches of snow, with no habitation, and not enjoy yourself.
We had plenty of time after returning to Alesund before our final dinner at the XL Diner. We decided to explore a little more of the town. This time we found our way to an area we kind of knew about but had not visited.We found a very nice small multi-level shopping center. The quality of the stores is generally high and I expect they do a lot of trade with the tourists who come off the huge cruise ships that make port calls. Mom bought a pair of walking shoes and I purchased a pair of Ecco sandals. Our feet will be much happier.It was a nice way to spend a bit more of the afternoon.
Dinner at the XL Diner was another 3-course meal. Fortunately for me, the restaurant was able to accommodate my needs as the majority of the food at XL DIner was fish-based. Perhaps I could have had the duck entrée but I wasn’t willing to risk it. I got a lamb dish that while perfectly fine didn’t knock my socks off. I think Mom and Dad had similar feelings about the salmon they had. The real challenge with meals like these though isn’t with the food but rather the lengthy - exceedingly so - time spent waiting between courses. It gets tiring just waiting. The restaurant topped our dinner off, once they learned of the anniversary, with a birthday robot that said “Happy birthday” on it and played a birthday song. The best they could do for a wedding anniversary. The dessert of various morsels was enjoyable but it lost something because of the waiting time.
Photos
On our way into the Hjørundfjord. We would end up spending less time up top than perhaps we should have done. There is no seating and it was a bit brisk. Photo by Jonathan
—June 19, 2023 at 09:48 PM.
Near the mouth of the Hjørundfjord. This is a sample of the landscape we are going to be seeing.
—June 19, 2023 at 10:13 PM.
Nearing the hamlet of Øye.
—June 19, 2023 at 10:57 PM.
I do not know the name of the waterfall but this is just one splendid example of a torrent rushing down several hundred meters to the valley floor. The boat you see is our ferry.
—June 20, 2023 at 11:05 AM.
Hotel Union was built in 1891. They clearly serve an upscale clientele both then and now. Back then salmon fishing was appearently quite popular but I believe that is far less common today. However, I’ve no doubt you can find plenty of outdoor activities to fill your day and exceptional food to sustain you through the night.
—June 20, 2023 at 11:20 AM.
We had enough time for a quick glimpse into the lavish Hotel Union and to pick up coffees. Just enough time to pause and snap this photo of Mom in front of what I suspect is one of the more photographed waterfalls of the fjord.
—June 20, 2023 at 11:25 AM.
Returning to Alesund. We are probably near Urke or Saebø.
—June 20, 2023 at 11:35 AM.
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