Grand Canyon Backpacking Trip and a Visit to Sedona, January 2020

Days 2 and 3 - January 17 and 18: Around the Colorado River

After retrieving the wayward twosome (not truly wayward as we knew where they were) the group changed plans to err on the side of prudence and safety. We all stayed put. We relaxed. We ambled over to the cantina at Phantom Ranch. Some would check out SIlver Bridge and learn they like it more than the Black Bridge because even though it wiggles a bit too people can see everything including the water swirling (though one prefers not to see swirling water) below through the graying underfoot. It was a quiet day to recover and enjoy the great wintertime weather.

The following day, that is to say today as I type this, would be a repeat in most respects For me the single big event was a hike with Andy a couple of miles along Clear Creek Trail. It is likely a good thing we never tackled it with the group. Granted once you conquer the climb to the Tonto Plaform it is pretty level going for seveal miles before descending again. But still... It is tougher going. We hiked perhaps a half-mile beyond Phantom Overlook which is still well short of the Tonto Platform. We had a lovely day hike to a bit beyond Phantom View (overlook). A sheltered nock in the cliff wall served us for lunch before we would work our way back down to Bright Angel Creek, Phantom Ranch, and eventually the Black Bridge.

Across the surging Colorado River passing beneath in emerald glory to start the climb up the sandy step-laidened South Kaibab Trail to where it joins the River Trail. Don’t breathe too deep or you’ll wince on the smell of mule feces and urines. Joy. Not.

The River Trail is generally level as it contours around the cliff wall above the Colorado connecting the Black and Silver Bridges and at the farthest point Bright Angel Trail at the mouth of Garden Creek. While some loose rock exists the footing is generally easy. The river views are lovely.

We closed our loop by crossing the Silver Bridge and returning to the campground. A lovely hike. Back with plenty of time to get ready for dinner and an early bedtime. After all, we intend to be hiking out of here around 06:30.

Photos

Joni and Doug had a rough night at their emergency campsite at the Tipoff. They experienced winds that were easily near gale force (and maybe more) strength throughout the night. WHen Andy arrived around 08:40 he felt gusts that were around that strong. They survived. They were greeted by a morning that while windy was still pretty. Photo by Joni.

--January 17, 2020 at 09:58:51. , ,

Joni leaving the pavilion at The Tip-off. But hoot by Andy.

--January 17, 2020 at 11:33:02. Williams, AZ, United States

!Photo taken January 17, 2020 at 11:33:02

Good morning sunshine. Andy is zipping up to the Tipoff where Joni and Doug are. Lil is trying to catch a bit of sunshine though it really will not touch our campsite for some time yet.

--January 17, 2020 at 10:32:56. Williams, AZ, United States

Sunrise was over an hour ago and it is still prettily colored against the high cliffs to the north. Just because the sun has risen does not mean its warmth can be directly felt at camp. That is still at least an hour or so away.

--January 17, 2020 at 10:41:56. Williams, AZ, United States

Standing on the northern footbridge that crossed Bright Angel Creek. (Left) looking north towards Phantom Ranch and the NOrth Rim (admittedly not visible); (right) we face south looking downstream along Bright Angel Creek.

--January 17, 2020 at 10:56:43. Williams, AZ, United States

Doug, Joni, and Andy showed up at the campground around noon. Lil and I were embarking on a stroll to the Black Bridge. The clouds have faded from the sky and it is wonderfully comfortable now People may be tired but the day is shaping up nicely and chances to learn a bit more about where we are abound especially if you take time to read the information signs posted along the trail.

--January 17, 2020 at 14:52:35. Williams, AZ, United States

Here come the mule-riders. They only cross the Black Bridge and we had to scamper off the bridge to let the mule train pass. I believe they were all heading to a night at Phantom Ranch.

--January 17, 2020 at 15:06:23. Williams, AZ, United States

People have lived in this area for over 1,000 years. The remains you can see here are from anceint native American homes. Between the Colorado River and Bright Angel Creek you had ample chances for agriculture, fishing, and hunting. When the heat would grow too be too much shifting locations to the North Rim would be done.

--January 17, 2020 at 15:21:31. Williams, AZ, United States

Not the best snapshot but you get the idea. The mule deer that make the area around Bright Angel Creek and the Colorado River home certainly don’t care that peole are about. I am as close as you might think I am. Joni is closer. This fellow just munched his way through the grasses at the entrance to our campsite. Maybe some mineral salts where there too from urine.

--January 17, 2020 at 16:18:29.

I wonder if this is the same mail carrying sack that I put a postcard into back in February 2002. Photo by Joni.

--January 18, 2020 at 11:52 AM. , ,

Andy and I are taking a dayhike up the Clear Creek Trail. I am near the junction of Clear Creek and NOrth Kaibab Trails. Looking towards the north and upstream along Bright Angel Creek. Near the Clear Creek Trailhed I gaze upstream along North Kaibab Trail. It is a brilliant sunny afternoon - just fine for a dayhike to somewhere.

--January 18, 2020 at 1z2:15:28. ,

!Photo taken Jan 18, 2020 at 12:27 PM

Clear Creek Trail is an unmaintained trail. At least unmaintained compared to the main corridor trails. It is much more akin to what you would think a trail should be. Full of rocks to step over. But really the footing is decent as the trail climbs pretty steeply towards the Tonto Platform still more than 1.5 miles distant in all probability. You can start to get a sense of the intricacy underlieing the geology that is the Grand Canyon as you look out across the chasm Bright Angel Creek flows through.

--January 18, 2020 at 12:27:36. Williams, AZ, United States

I think this is a yucca. Maybe it is even a Centgury Plant that isn’t ready to bloom. Standing alone and tall in this place along the Clear Creek Trail.

--January 18, 2020 at 12:38:01.

Look down past my right elbow and you can see the buildings of Phantom Ranch some 600 feet below where I am sitting at Phantom Overlook. I actually think more interesting views appear later but this wider flat spot is a good place to sit and soak in some splendor. Photo by Andy.

--January 18, 2020 at 13:02:50.

After picking a spine out of my shoe that was just embedded enough to poke me each time I took a step I found this spot. Look southeast (here) or southwest (not shown) and you can easily see the River 900 feet below. Our lunch and turn-around spot is not miuch farther along the trail. We are still a good ways from the TOnto Platform which is where, not too far along as I recall, where my “heebie jeebie” spot was. Not going to find it this time around.

--January 18, 2020 at 13:33:41. Williams, AZ, United States

Andy calls photos like this one “Find Ken” for obvious reasons. Look hard, I am not sure the splash of beige and orange will even be visible. I am there walking along the River Trail. Look center-right along a lighter tan line of rocks that travels horizontally across the photo. Photo by Andy.

--January 18, 2020 at 16:08:59. Williams, AZ, United States

The Silver Bridge. Mules do not walk across this one. Guess they don’t like the grating or lower railings. SOme people probably don’t either as you can watch the water of the river swirl on by below.

--January 18, 2020 at 16:24:07. Williams, AZ, United States