Yesterday we had to contend with a few things beyond our control so our plans changed. It all worked out for the best as among other things we had a chance to visit the Anchorage Museum which I highly recommend people do. Its primary focus is on the native Alaskan people and their culture. You will see examples of art, clothing, history presented in both good and bad ways (i.e., rather tacky approaches that were taken by westerners - Americans - as the age of mass media took hold). There is plenty to see and the majority of the museum is free.
Today we got a somewhat late start but eventually we found ourselves driving along the Tarmigan Arm towards Whittier. It was cool and overcast but as we passed by various lookouts we found some people out and about. Perhaps they were looking for birds or hoping to spot a baluga whale cruising offshore. The time was, I think, wrong for a bore tide to rumble on by (something we hope to see). After passing through the 2.5-mile long tunnel that is used by both automobiles and trains (a first for us and perhaps unique) we soon found the trailhead for Portage Pass Trail. When we were on the other side of the mountain it was overcast but somewhat clear. As we stepped out of the car we found it was now misty and precipitating ever so slightly.
The trail climbs up and over Portage Pass and down to Portage Lake which is at the base of Portage Glacier. The footing is hardpacked dirt with some loose stones liberally sprinkled about. It is hard to see why trail-builders, actually road builders as the trail was originally an old military road, would haul rocks up to lay on the path but perhaps they did just that. As we the somewhat steeper grade towards the pass the mist/fog seemed to settle around us wiping out any views that may have been present earlier. A few types of birds sang to each other as we went by but although we had seen numerous cars in the parking lot we seemed to be alone.
We are just below Portage Pass and the mist has really settled around us. There are no views more than a modest distance away. But we learned that we should go on because the mist clears down below at Portage Lake. We were going to retreat until we learned this.
--July 11 2019 at 12:50. Anchorage, AK, United States
When we reached the pass, about 1 mile in and not quite 800 feet higher in elevation, we found everything obscured by the mist. To say this was disappointing would be fair. We actually were going to turn around and head back down when a fellow in shorts and a T-shirt with a dog came towards us and happily told us the views improved and the scene at Portage Lake was clear and fine. With that encouragement we climbed over the pass and began the second half of the hike.
The trail is narrow and most times wholly surrounded by folliage. We passed by a lot of cow parsley and now and then vibrant groups of plants like these fire weeds Mom and Dad are standing in.
--July 11 2019 at 13:14. Anchorage, AK, United States
We are getting closer to the end: still 20 minutes out. We had a very distant view of Portage Glacier a little earlier but this is the first really good view. Look, the mist has eased off. Or, more accurately, we have just gotten below the level of the mist.
--July 11 2019 at 13:58. Anchorage, AK, United States
Over the next 1.25 miles we passed by barely visible Divided Lake. We could hear streams pouring down the mountain but rarely saw them. The trail was level in places but did descend perhaps 400 feet to the lake (a puzzle to me as cruises are done on the lake and I am pretty sure they start at a point that is 70 feet lower in elevation than we we ended the outbound hike). The mist lifted and we finally started seeing the people who the cars must belong too. This is a busy trail but we were able to ignore the people pretty easily as we rarely clumped together. Eventually we caught glimpses of Portage Lake while still a ways off. We could tell we were in for a treat as the glacier also came into view.
Portage Lake. At the lakeshore the wind picks up and the temperature drops a few degrees. But we all agree the scenery is worth a small chill. To reach this point you hike about 2.25 miles gaining almost 800 feet in the first mile and then descending About 650 feet over the next 1.25 miles. The footing is good though the trail does have small rocks strewn about. I expect most can make the hike in 90 minutes; we took nearly 120 on the way out and 90 on the way back.
--July 11 2019 at 14:13. Anchorage, AK, United States
Portage Lake is 3 miles long and just under 0.9 miles wide at its widest point. Portage Glacier continues to retreat from the lake but I think it is calving far fewer icebergs into the water now than it once did decades ago probably because it has moved back from the lake.
--July 11 2019 at 14:14. Anchorage, AK, United States
When we reached the lake we found some people there but it was pretty quiet. The scenery was worth the misty climb up and over the pass and down the the lake.
Nearing the parking lot on our return trip. Mom long ago vanished into the mist though she probably was only a minute or so ahead of Dad and me. I think we must be looking out to Tarmingan Arm which is, I believe, part of Cook Inlet.
--July 11 2019 at 15:46. Whittier, AK, United States
It was windy at the shore and noticeably cooler. Still we settled down for a bite to eat before retracing our steps. We made it back to the car, retracing the 2.25 miles from clear to mist and clear again, in about 90 minutes. This is a hike well worth doing even if the weather and viewing conditions were not all they could have been.
At A Glance
- Total Distance: 4.5 miles out and back
- Total ascent and descent about 1,300 feet
- Total time: about 4 hours we about 33 minutes in breaks
- Weather: overcast with a temperature around 60F. Around the region of the pass, about 800 feet in elevation, it was very misty. You could not see much of anything. At Portage Lake it was wonderfully clear though still overcast.
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